Costa Rica

A little bit of history…

Costa Rica, dubbed the rich coast by Columbus, was a melting pot of cultural diversity long before the Europeans came, with Mesoamerican and South American groups settling on the land. The area was not defined by one tribe or group but a mix of indigenous people. Faced with Indian resistance and tropical diseases, it took the Spanish around 60 years to colonise the country and Cartago. The central highlands was foundered as a colony in 1563. The colony soon diminished in importance, however, as there was not a large Indian workforce to sustain it, it was far removed from major trading routes. Costa Rica became somewhat of a poor relation to other Spanish-seized nations despite the gradual establishment of cities in the fertile central highlands during the 1700s. Costa Rica’s status saw a turnaround in the 19th century as it gained full independence (1838) and achieved economic growth through coffee exports. Today it has a healthy economy driven by its growing industries that include tourism and electronics, and is the most affluent country in Central America.

A peace-loving and forward thinking nation, Costa Rica held its first democratic elections in 1889 and abolished its army in 1948 to invest in the country’s social and cultural needs. Despite a brief dictatorship and a six week civil war in the first half of the twentieth century, Costa Rica has achieved political stability and has managed to escape military dictatorships and violence that has befallen its neighbours.

Sights and sounds

Costa Rica is like Dr. Who’s tardis: it’s a small country but there is a vast array of species and natural beauty residing within its borders. It contains round 5 per cent of the world’s biodiversity and a quarter of the country is designated a national park or reserve. With 26 national parks, Costa Rica is renowned for its progressive approach to conservation and ecotourism. Parque Nacional Corcovado boasts the largest primary rainforest on the American Pacific coastline and is home to around 140 mammal species including the endangered Baird’s Tapir, jaguars and howler monkeys, as well as crocodiles and sharks on the coastal track of the park. The country’s turtle haven, Parque Nacional Tortuguero, lies on the Caribbean coast and its where Hawksbill, Loggerhead, Green and Leatherback turtles lay their eggs. Getting to the park is an adventure in itself since it can only be reached by sea or air.

To get closer to the clouds, Costa Rica’s volcanoes provide the perfect vehicle. The country houses around 100 volcanoes with only a handful active.  Volcán Irazú, the country’s highest volcano at over 3400m, is active and its last major eruption was in 1963. It makes for a worthwhile trek to the summit where it’s possible to see the Pacific and Caribbean on rare clear days. For night owls, the active Volcán Arenal is best viewed from afar when the sun goes down for a chance of seeing it spouting spectacular explosions of hot orange lava. The Arenal Hanging Bridges, which consist of 15 suspension bridges in front of the volcano, provide great views of the volcano and the surrounding rainforest. Close to the volcano is Laguna de Arenal, the largest lake in Costa Rica, often hailed as one of the best windsurfing spots in the world. White water rafting, horse back riding and fishing are also popular activities in the area.

With an abundance of wildlife, rainforests and natural wonders to choose from in Costa Rica, it is also worth exploring the acclaimed Monteverde cloud forest. Lauded for its enormous range of plant and wildlife species, it’s a full on jungle experience with muddy trails and thick clouds hovering overhead. Adding to the area’s uniqueness is the Quaker community which settled close by in a town also known as Monteverde in the 1950s.

Sandwiched between the Pacific and Caribbean, Costa Rica has no shortage of fine beaches, whether white or black sand, tranquil or high spirited. On the pacific coast, Domincal is a cosy beach community and popular surfing destination with various national reserves and parks within easy travelling distance. One of the highlights on the Caribbean coast is Punta Uva which is picture postcard personified. The Nicoya Peninsula, meanwhile, is among other things, a hub for idyllic beaches from the secluded charms of Mal Pais to surfers’ paradise Santa Teresa. 

If you come across random large stone spheres, these are just another of country’s unexpected and unique features. The existence of the spheres, which range from a few centimetres to 2 metres in diameter, were discovered in the 1930s and it’s not known why, what or who, but they are believed to have been made around 200BC to 1600 CE. Around 300 have been found so far in various part of the country.

Best time to go…

It’s simple: dry, hot weather is like honey to a bee for tourists, but during the rainy season, you’ll find less crowds and usually cheaper hotel rates. To avoid the crowds and also a chance of dry weather, late April and May along with mid October to mid December are the best bet since the dry season tends to run from late December to mid April. The rain may hamper sunbathing but it doesn’t take away from the natural diversity of the country. Easter week is one of the busiest times especially in and around beach resorts. It’s hot year round with the coast boasting the hottest temperatures, averaging 89ºF (32ºC), while the highlands are relieved by cooler temperatures at night.

Getting around

Like most Latin American countries, if you want to get around, bus is the way to go. Since the population is largely concentrated to the centre of the country, this is where roads and buses are most abundant. San Jose is the main departure point and depending on where you want to travel to and from, it is sometimes easier to return to San Jose to take the next leg of your journey. Buses vary from crowded old school buses to air conditioned luxury. But you get what you pay for and for long distance journeys on direct buses will get you to your destination an hour or two earlier than the cheaper corriente or normal variety that stop on demand. Buses are at their most crowded during major holidays, especially Easter, and at weekends and on Mondays and Fridays. In San José the majority of buses leave from what is commonly known as Le Coca Cola, the former site of the bottling factory and most services stop at 10pm.

Car rental is a popular option but it can be expensive and you need to be prepared to deal with unruly drivers and the occasional potholed roads. For long journeys, flying is good way to get to your destination quicker and domestic airlines like Nature Air and Sansa offer good rates and fly to cities as well as remote destinations.

Taxis are a good way to get to remote areas and around towns and cities. Agree on a fare before you set off, and for shorter journeys make sure the metre is switched on. It’s worth noting that taxi drivers tend to identify areas by landmarks rather than by address so it helps if you know what your destination is near.

Highlight: San José

The cosmopolitan bustle of capital city San José is far removed from the natural wonders of Costa Rica, but with most journeys beginning and ending in the city it’s a good place to while away a few days. Although there are few reminders of its colonial past what with skyscrapers, department stores and fast food chains dominating the city skyline, its museums, plazas and surrounding areas provide an alternative look at Costa Rican life. Museo de Jade, one of the country’s most renowned museums, offers a look at the world’s largest collection of American jade, together with various archaeological exhibits. Built in 1897, Teatro Nacional, the national theatre, is one of the city’s most striking buildings with marble staircases and gilded ceilings. For immersion in city life, the main market, Mercado Central, is good way to meet locals and find a bargain, while for people watching, head to the parks such as Parque Nacional and Parque Central.

San José is also the country’s transport hub and is the best base to explore from. Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo is a the closest national park to the city, less than an hours drive away, and amongst its lush vegetation it’s possible to capture the sight of quetzals, eagles, jaguars. You can also view the park from the comfort of cable cars and see flora and fauna that would otherwise go unseen by taking the hiking route. La Paz Waterfall Gardens is a nature park one hour from the city that features five waterfalls and a butterfly observatory. Also within striking distance of the city is one of the oldest national parks in the country, Parque Nacional Volcán Poás, with this being Costa Rica, an active volcano is the main attraction. 

Useful links

www.lonelyplanet.com
Lonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.

www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.

www.natureair.com
Airline Nature Air offers domestic flights, as well as services to Nicaragua and Panama.

www.flysansa.com
Domestic airline Sansa has flights to major and remote locations and the site also has links to domestic airlines for Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua and Panama.