Kenya

A little bit of history...

An archaeologist’s dream, Kenya is home to fossil finds indicating that human life existed over 2 million years ago, while excavations across East Africa show primates date back 20 million years. More recent history, relatively speaking, shows that the Cushitic-speaking people from Ethiopia were among the earliest migrants and settled around 2000 BC. Various tribes from across the continent flocked to what is now Kenya, including the Bantu-speaking people, while Arabs and Persians developed trading routes along the coast from the 8th century onwards. By the 16th century, the Portuguese had colonised the country and taken control of trade routes only for the Arabs to regain control of the coast by the end of the 17th century.

By the mid-19th century, the Germans and the British had turned their interests to Kenya and in 1920 it became a British colony. The spread of white settlement led to tribes like the Maasai losing land and escalating tensions which culminated in the Mau Mau rebellion in 1953; the Mau Mau’s aim was to drive the white settlers out of Kenya and by 1956 were defeated by the colonists. Jomo Kenyatta, a key figure in Kenya’s quest for liberation, became the country’s first president after Kenya gained independence in 1963 and the Kenya Africa National Union (KANU) held power for nearly 40 years; a one party rule mentality existed until 1991 when several political parties emerged. In recent years, the current government has been faced with corruption allegations, and together with one of the country’s worst droughts and the spread of the HIV/AIDS epidemic, the country’s journey to a socially and economically reformed future has so far been challenged.

Best time to go...

Kenya’s hot and dry climate is interspersed with periods of rain, from March to May (the ‘long rains’) and from October to December (the ‘short rains’). The most popular time to visit is January to February and July to August, which are also the best times to go on safari; during the rainy seasons accommodation prices are lower but it’s possible that there may be restricted access to some safari parks. To catch the migrating wildebeests from the Serengeti to the Masai Mara Game Reserve, June to September is the time to catch the roaming hordes.

Getting Around...

Kenya’s skies accommodate a number of domestic airlines and private operators that jet to major cities like Nairobi and Mombasa, as well as national parks and reserves such as Masai Mara and Amboseli. The main domestic flight operators are Kenya Airways and Air Kenya. It’s advisable to book in advance and reconfirm flights at least 48 hours before departure.

Kenya is well served by an extensive bus network. Matatus (minibuses) are a regular feature on the country’s roads, though they do have questionable safety records, are often crowded and it’s not advisable to use them at night. There is a selection of private bus companies to choose from including Eldoret Express, Stagecoach and Akamba that serve major routes and offer reasonable fares.

Although scenic, train travel is limited and time consuming; the journey from Nairobi to Mombasa takes around 13 hours compared to 6 hours by road. There are three classes to choose from but only classes 1 and 2 are worth considering due to better security. Locally and long distance wise, there are ample amount of private and shared taxis available and fares should be negotiated prior to travel. For more independent travellers, car hire is available but it is hard on the wallet and police permission is required for driving on certain routes in the northeast of the country.

Sights and Sounds...

Kenya is much more than a real-life jungle book of exotic animals and the string of safari hotspots that most visitors flock to. Its chequered history has given rise to a diverse population of tribal groups and swathes of agricultural land have remained untouched from the infringement of the modern world, culminating in a culturally rich and splendidly scenic country that’s often hailed as the crowning glory of East Africa.

The monumental Great Rift Valley runs the length of the country dividing east and west and carries a multitude of contrasting scenes from hot springs arising against the backdrop of steep cliffs to soda lakes graced with flocks of flamingos. At the valley’s northern reaches the climate is distinctly hotter and the elevation lower, with routes to the huge water expanse that is Lake Turkana (formerly Lake Rudolph); it is world’s largest permanent desert lake and alkaline lake. Wild and wonderful parks and reserves adorn the surrounding area, while various tribal groups including the Turkana, Samburu and Elmolo inhabit the land. Sibiloi National Park, on the north eastern shore, is a treasure trove of fossils and pre-historic finds; human, giant tortoise and crocodile fossils have all been found here. The barren setting is also home to abundant bird species, including flamingos and storks. Further south, Central Island National Park provides a refuge for breeding crocodiles and is located in the middle of the lake in the shadow of an extinct volcano. Loiyangalani is the main jumping of point for explorations in and around the lake and is equipped with an air strip, post office and campsites.

The valley’s central region is home to Lake Naivasha, a freshwater lake, which is located around one hour from Nairobi and is a popular retreat for city dwellers and tourists. The south shore boasts a host of day-trip delights and most visitors make their base at one of the lakeside hotels or guest houses. Elsamere is the former residence of conservationist Joy Adamson, made famous by the Born Free film, and today comprises a small museum, conservation centre and guest house. Further west lies a crater lake that is worth visiting, while the eastern side of the lake is home to the Crescent Island Sanctuary which teems with bird species, as well as small herds of zebra, giraffe and antelope. There’s freedom to roam to your hearts content at nearby Hell’s Gate National Park, which is one of the few places in the country where it’s possible to venture unguided among the game herds. Walk, cycle, skip or run, whichever mode you choose, there’s a high chance of spotting wildlife such as buffalos, zebras and baboons. Campsites are accessible within the park.

The remote southern sections of the Rift Valley are not as frequented by tourists but are no less astounding. Lake Magadi is the southernmost of the valley’s lakes and is a soda-encrusted stretch that supports a number of bird species, most notably flamingos. The Olorgasailie Prehistoric Site lies north of the lake, less than an hour from Nairobi, and is where excavations uncovered ancient tools and animal bones. Guided tours and a museum provide a wealth of information.

Western Kenya for the most part is off the main tourist trails but radiates an appealing charm, one that is characterised by equatorial rainforest, tea plantations and not a safari tour in sight. Its major draw is Lake Victoria; the largest on the continent, which also borders Uganda and Tanzania. The lake’s islands make for an interesting jaunt although getting to them isn’t plain sailing due to boat services dictated by unpredictable water levels. Mfangano Island is particularly worth the effort for its ancient rock paintings and rich culture; it is serviced by large wooden motorised boats (matatu boats).

The Swahili language and culture, together with Arab-Muslim influences enrich the country’s coastal stretch that has more than idyllic beaches to recommend it. The region is bathed in historical significance and ancient sites are a common theme along the coast, while its exotic waters are among some of the world’s best dive sites. Mombasa, the country’s second city, is the coastal hub but has much more going for it than a springboard to the rest of the coast. The city is actually an island connected to the mainland by bridges and is the biggest port on the continent’s east coast. The Old Town provides an interesting mix of architectural styles dating back to from as early as the first half of the 19th century and includes Indian and British influences. Overlooking the city’s historical heart is the Portuguese-built 16th century fort, Fort Jesus, which now stands as a monument to the past and houses a museum. The Tsavo National Park is only an hour away and is populated by rhinos, monkeys, buffalo, giraffe, antelopes and large herds of elephants.

Malindi, north of Mombasa, was once a centre of power for Swahilis and a Portuguese stronghold and has since evolved into a fully fledged beach resort town. The tourist tackiness, however, is redeemed by its protected coral reef-waters that mark it out as top snorkelling and scuba diving location. The nearby ruins of Gedi, a Swahili town that existed between the 13th and 17th centuries, is another fascinating highlight that includes the remnants of palaces, mosques and tombs.

For a taste of paradise, the Lamu archipelago off the north coast is a true contender. It has an army of winning attributes from tranquil white-sand beaches to the absence of motorised vehicles. But to keep things interesting, this largely Muslim enclave has a history and strong Swahili culture to keep it afloat. The island’s main centre, Lamu Town, is the oldest inhabited town in the country and boasts old Arab architecture, mosques, a Hindu temple and decent museums.

Highlight: Nairobi...

Kenya’s capital is one of Africa’s largest cities and the most modern in all East Africa. Nairobi is a colonial creation that sprang up from the construction of the Mombasa to Uganda railway in the late 19th century and has since developed in leaps and bounds to become a centre for international business and a worthwhile base for excursions to some of the country’s top-rated national parks and reserves. Crime has afflicted the city’s reputation but is not a reason to stay away, and adhering to common sense and not flashing your cash should ensure a relatively hassle free stay. Despite the proliferation of western influences  in the form of American-style shopping malls and fast food restaurants, the city has managed to maintain a distinct character; one that provides a sense of the real Kenya of optimistic prosperity and stark poverty.

The wide stretch of Kenyatta Avenue is a hive of activity and a useful navigation point. Amid the office blocks and conference centres, the tree-lined expanse is littered with safari touts, moneychangers and souvenir sellers. A useful aid, however, can be found at the New Stanley Hotel’s Thorn Tree café: a friendly pavement café with a message board used and read by travellers and may sometimes include details such as related to excursions outside of the capital. Further toward the centre at City Square, there’s the chance to catch a glimpse inside the country’s political system at the Parliament building. Visitors are permitted to sit and watch politicians verbally battling it out from the public gallery. The Square also reflects the country’s political past with a statue of Kenya’s founding father Jomo Kenyatta, and is also the site of his mausoleum. North of Kenyatta Avenue is one of the city’s most striking buildings, the Jamia Mosque. Though non-Muslims are not always assured entrance, the building’s exterior of green and white opulence is to be admired.

The city’s museums also make for an informed introduction to both the city and the country. The National Museum, which is set to re-open in mid-2007 following renovation, exhibits a wide range of artefacts from pre-historic fossils and some of the earliest human remains to contemporary East African art, while its grounds house a snake park and are a prime spot for bird-watching. The National Archives also provide a fascinating look into the city’s development and include photographs, contemporary art, cultural and tribal artefacts. Based at the former farmhouse residence of the Out of Africa author, the eponymous Karen Blixen museum is an interesting look at her life and the period she lived there (1914 to 1931).

The city’s parks bring a dose of light relief from the urban throng. City Park is the biggest of them all and is draped in tropical foliage and home to an array of birdlife and monkeys. To see a greater concentration of wildlife, however, you don’t need to travel too far away from the city’s sprawl since the country’s first national park is just a stone’s throw away. Herds of zebra, wildebeest and giraffe are just some of the animals to roam The Nairobi National Park, which also cares for sick and abandoned animals; the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, situated within the park, is a haven for orphaned elephants and rhinos. These wild plains set against tower blocks and traffic in the hazy distance makes for a surreal image.

The city is also something of a safari-central destination thanks to its relative proximity to some of the best-known parks and reserves. Masai Mara National Reserve (also known as the Mara), the country’s most popular park, is world-renowned for its sheer scale of wildlife and is also a haven for Masai communities. The best time to visit is from late June to September when the Great Wildebeest Migration roams en masse from the Serengeti in Tanzania to Kenya’s lush grasslands. A popular way to see the herds of lions, cheetahs and other creatures of the wild is from the confines of a hot air balloon. The park can be reached in around seven hours by road from Nairobi. To catch sight of herds of elephants, Amboseli National Park is the place to go and is just a four hour drive from the capital. Situated in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain, the park is an awesome panorama of grazing animals such as zebras and giraffes on wide open plains. Mount Kenya National Park, meanwhile, is located a two-hour drive away and boasts Africa’s second highest mountain and the area is home to the Kikuyu people, as well as diverse flora, fauna and landscapes including glaciers and thick forest.

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