Vietnam
A little bit of history...
Vietnam’s history has been marred by war and various power struggles as it has sought to regain and maintain independence. Its earliest origins are believed to date back to the Dong Son civilisation circa the 3rd century. Up until the 10th century it was ruled by a succession of Chinese dynasties before it achieved independence. The period up until the mid 19th century saw a series of dynasties including, Ly, Tran and Le, with aims to carve out the country’s own identity against the influence of China.
The country was unable to fend off the dominance of the French Empire and by 1883 the French had overtaken the country. Ho Chi Minh, the founder of the Vietnamese Communist party, was a key force in the country’s quest for independence, and post-WW II he declared the country independent after his communist army defeated French colonists in 1954. At the 1954 Geneva conference the French agreed to withdraw and the country was effectively divided into the communist north and the anti-communist south, which was intended to be temporary and followed by democratic elections. This didn’t turn out as planned when Ngo Dinh Diem, the leader of the south, refused to hold elections and the north began strengthening their communist influence in the south. An armed struggle ensued and the USA, who supported the south, intervened in the early 1960s and was joined by other foreign troops. War raged until a ceasefire in 1973, and two years later the north gained control and unified Vietnam under communist rule.
Stability was not assured and Vietnam incurred the wrath of China when it invaded Cambodia in 1978 which resulted in China attacking Vietnam the following year. Years of fierce combat meant an economy at near collapse which contributed to thousands of refugees fleeing the country in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Aside from Soviet influence, it remained isolated from the world. Economic reforms in 1986 paved the way for a modernised economy and economic growth. Having established diplomatic relations (notably with the USA) the country opened itself up to foreign investment. While it remains one of the world’s poorest countries, it has one of the fastest growing economies in Asia.
Best time to go...
To experience Vietnam at its most weather-friendly, there is no clean cut time of when to go as climate varies between the north, south and central regions. The north is defined by a cool, wet winter from November to April and a hot summer from May to October, during which time typhoons may occur. The temperatures in the north are at their mildest from late September to November and in March and April. To avoid the wet season in the central region which runs from August to December, it’s best to visit between January and July; the coastal regions tend to bear the brunt of the wet weather. The most desirable time to visit the south is between October and February when it’s dry and a respite from the baking temperatures experienced during March through to May. The south’s two main seasons are wet, from May to November, and dry, during the months of December to April, with June to August the wettest period.
The busiest time to visit is typically from November to January and April to June when tourists are out in full, leading to a rise in accommodation rates. A worthwhile, albeit packed, time to visit is during the weeks leading up to the lunar new year, known as Tet, a major holiday in Vietnam. The days change each year depending on the lunar cycle but for 2007 the first day of Tet is earmarked for February 18. During the holiday, there may be limited services and a number of businesses close for three or four days but the build up is the best part if you’re a visitor.
Currency and living costs...
The dong is Vietnam’s unit of currency. The current exchange rate is: $1 to 16,090.00d. Check www.xe.com or equivalent for the most up to date exchange rate.The average costs of life’s little essentials are as follows:
- Meals – main dishes for lunch can cost between 15,000d and 30,000d in restaurants, while dinner is in the region of 30,000d and upwards. Pho, a traditional soup dish containing meat, can be purchased for as little as 2,000d to 4,000d.
- Beer – a bottle of beer can range between 5,000d to 10,000d, whereas draft beer is priced around 2,500d for half a litre.
- Coffee – A cup of coffee is priced between 2,000d and 5,000d.
- Taxi ride – A taxi ride is usually charged from a rate of 14,000d, though it’s possible that some taxis will charge as low as 12,000d and others as high as 16,000d. Most charge between 4,000d and 5,000 per km thereafter.
- Accommodation – A 2* hotel room, depending on season and availability, can be priced at around 320,000d and 650,000d.
- Internet café – Rates per hour differ from as low as 5,000d to up to 15,000d.
Getting around...
For long distances, flying is a doable but often expensive option compared to trains and buses. The main domestic airlines are Vietnam Airlines and Pacific Airlines which offer regular services between major cities; flying time between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City is around 2 hours. It’s often cheaper to purchase domestic tickets within Vietnam.
Vietnam has an extensive bus network in place and cheap fares but the buses are all too often overcrowded and road safety is dubious; driving is not recommended. While the fares may still be relatively cheap, foreigners are usually charged more than locals. Aimed at the tourist trade, Open Tour Buses are inexpensive, comfortable buses that journey to the major destinations and stop at selected hotels and restaurants along the way. Although a pleasurable way to travel, it can feel like a tourist bubble rather than an experience of the real Vietnam. Minibuses are also plentiful but can be irritatingly slow with numerous pick ups and drop offs. It’s best to ride express minibuses which have far fewer stops and are air conditioned.
If time isn’t an issue, train travel is a relaxed way to travel. The journeys can take longer than by bus but offer more leg room and are generally less crowded. Also, unlike bus fares, foreigners pay the same as locals. Depending on your travel budget, trains range from the non-air conditioned seated variety to air-conditioned sleepers, the latter being an obvious choice if you plan to brave the 30 hour plus trip from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi which is often referred to as the Reunification Express. All trains require a reservation and it’s often possible to book a train from a station other than the one you are departing from.
Aside from crowded buses, taxis are good for getting around major cities. It’s advisable to used metered taxis or at least negotiate a fare before departure. Cyclos, three-wheeled bicycles, are an alternative way of traversing city streets and can be hired for a full day. For a more high-powered mode of transport, Honda Oms, motorbikes whereby the passenger sits behind the driver, are also plentiful. For both modes, it’s best to have a pen and paper to hand to write down your destination and agree on a fare prior to the journey.
Useful links
www.lonelyplanet.comLonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
www.pacificairlines.com.vn
Pacific Airlines.
www.vietnamairlines.com
Vietnam Airlines.
www.vr.com.vn
Train operator Vietnam Railways.
