South Korea
A little bit of history...
South Korea, formally known as the Republic of Korea (ROK), was formed in 1948 following Korea’s release from Japanese rule after WW II, and the subsequent occupation by the Soviet Union in the north and the United States in the south. Prior to the separation, Korea endured a turbulent history and power struggles with its neighbours. With ancient roots and the emergence of warring kingdoms, Korea became united in the 7th century when the Silla, Paekje and Koguryo kingdoms formed an alliance. Dynasties came and went, while outside threats and invasions ensued throughout the centuries, and included assaults from the Mongol Empire in the 13th century and Japan’s invasion in 1592.
In 1910 Korea was annexed by Japan, effectively ending its long ruling royal dynasty, the Joseon dynasty (also known as the Yi dynasty), and resulting in the country being ruled by Japan until the end of WW II. There was little sign of unification of the north and south with the onslaught of the Korean War in 1950. Both sides were hit hard and South Korea jostled with various governments in the years that followed in a bid to regain stability. The country has built itself up from one of the poorest Asian nations to one of the world’s richest; in 1988 the capital Seoul was the venue for the summer Olympics and 1993 saw the country’s first civilian president, Kim Yo‘ng-sam, after over 30 years of military rule. Today, it’s a modern democracy with a thriving economy.
Sights & Sounds...
Far and beyond the powerhouse skyline and cultural treats of Seoul, South Korea exists as a dynamic country with a range of landscapes from mountains to island getaways. A good way to catch sight of the country’s impressive scenery is to venture east where there’s a hub of national parks, one of the most popular being the Sŏraksan National Park. Mount Sŏraksan, one of the highest in the country, is the centrepiece and hiking trails explore the park’s lush forest, waterfalls, temples, and Buddha statues. In the centre of the country, Songnisan National Park is notable for the picturesque allure of mountainous peaks and forested surroundings, together with one of the country’s finest temples, Popchusa, which dates to the 6th century. It’s worth investing time in soaking up this ancient site which features a pagoda and a huge bronze Buddha statue that stands majestic at over 100ft in height.
Beach and lakeside retreats are also in abundance. Some of the best beaches in the country can be found in Samcheok on the east coast. Its silver sand beaches are edged with pine forests and it also boasts some of the biggest caves in the country. Further north lies the town of Sokch’o which, as well as being the gateway to Sŏraksan National Park, is also home to more fine beaches and hot springs. On the south coast, Samcheunpo has a geological gem amongst its water sports and sunbathers; dinosaur footprints. Visitors flock to the Dinosaur Park Beach to see the ancient prints in the rocks that skim the shore. For more waterside activities, the country has a huge range of natural and artificial lakes. The northern city of Chuncheon, a popular tourist destination for Koreans, is within easy travelling distance to three lakes: Soyang, Chuncheon and Uiam. Sightseeing boats shimmy up and down the grand waterways where it’s possible to see natural beauty infused with history, like the Cheongpyeongsa Buddhist temple on Lake Soyang which dates from the 10th century.
With thousands of islands in its vicinity, South Korea is something of a springboard for a tropical island getaway. Chejudo Island is the largest island and often likened to the tropical charms of Hawaii. Situated in the South Sea, it’s a popular honeymoon destination but despite its commercialised quarters it still stands as a place of cultural and historical interest. The culture is different to that of the mainland; women are the breadwinners and they are known to go diving (without scuba gear) for shell fish and other deep sea goodies. The sea, together with tourism, is the island’s fortune and features resorts offset by natural delights such as towering waterfalls, a huge lava tube, thought to be the largest in the world, and idyllic beaches. Rising high above the Island is the country’s highest peak, Mount Hallasan, a dormant volcano, which at around 6,400ft makes for a good hike. Ullŭngdo, located in the Sea of Japan (also known as the East Sea), is another island hotspot that’s worth a few days stay. It’s rugged volcanic rocks tower over small fishing villages and makes for a prized scenic setting.
In recent years, the country has become a burgeoning skiing destination and has 13 ski resorts all within a day’s journey of Seoul; the ski season runs from December to mid March and is at its height in February. Yongpyong Ski Resort (also known as Dragon Valley International Ski Resort) is one of the country’s premier destinations and has over 20 slopes, catering for beginners to advanced skiers. Snowboarding lessons are also available, as well as a swimming pool, sauna and bowling alley.
For a close-up look at the country’s ancient past, the town of Gyeongju is teeming with relics and reminders from its time as the capital of the Silla dynasty 1,000 years ago and boasts temples, tombs, palaces and castles. One of the highlights is the UNESCO listed Bulguska Buddhist temple that’s home to some of the country’s national treasures and visitors can expect to see ancient stone pagodas, bronze Buddha statues and Silla-style bridges.
Best time to go...
South Korea is at its most pleasant during the autumn months, from September to November, when the foliage is out in full, the skies are blue and the temperatures are agreeable. Winter is also a good time to visit for winter sport enthusiasts. Spring is also stunning, particularly during the Cherry Blossom festival in April, but it can also be very busy with an influx of Japanese tourists. Summer is prone to monsoons and stifling heat.
Currency and living costs...
The won is South Korea’s unit of currency. The current exchange rate is: $1 to W9,355.33. Check www.xe.com or equivalent for the most up to date exchange rate.
The average costs of life’s little essentials are as follows:
- Meals – A burger in a fast food restaurant is around W5,000, while a meal in a mid-range restaurant can cost between W11,000 and W19,000.
- Beer – A large bottle of beer bought from a store is priced between W1,500 and W1,800 but expect to pay double in a bar.
- Coffee – Vending machines can charge as little as W300, while plush cafes price their coffee at around W3,000.
- Taxi ride – Taxi’s typically charge a basic rate between W1300 to W1600 and W500 per km thereafter.
- Accommodation – A 2* hotel room, depending on season and availability, can be priced in the region of W20,000 toW40,000.
- Internet café – Internet cafes, known as PC Baangs, are widespread and prices for internet access per hour generally fall into the bracket of W2,000 to W4,000.
Getting around...
South Korea has a solid transport infrastructure, providing an easy and efficient way to explore the country. For a country the size of South Korea, flying can be something of a luxury rather than a necessity though domestic flights do serve major cities like Seoul and Busan. The most preferred long haul mode of transport is train travel, a well-invested sector that offers punctual, inexpensive and regular services; most stations also have signs in English. The national train operator Korail connects major cities and there are is a choice of train types on offer. The crème de la crème is the high-speed KTX (Korea Train eXpress) trains which bullet through at speeds of up to 300 km/h and can travel from Seoul in the north of the country to Busan in the south in less than 3 hours. Of the non-high speed services, saemaul-ho are the fastest and are more expensive than buses, next in line are the mugunghwa-ho which have limited stops but are cheaper than the bus alternative. Tongil-ho services are cheaper still but don’t have the comfort of the quicker trains and are not air-conditioned. For frequent train travel, a KR Rail Pass may be a worthy option as it offers unlimited travel over a certain period of time.
Buses provide a reliable, and sometimes cheaper, alternative to trains and are distinguished by two types: express and intercity; express are faster, while intercity tend to go to more destinations. These different types also depart from different bus terminals so it’s always worth checking the departure point. For the more independent traveller, car hire is readily available throughout the country but can significantly stretch the budget. Alternatively, for travel by car, long-distance taxis, also known as bullet taxis because of drivers’ speed, are available; a fare must be negotiated before the journey begins.
Local transport links are dependable with several cities supplementing their bus and train services with subway links, including Busan and Daegu. Not surprisingly Seoul has the most developed subway system and is easily accessible. The Seoul subway also has signs and announcements in English and the different lines are distinguished by colour. Likewise, Seoul’s bus routes are colour coded: blue buses connect the city to suburban areas; green buses have more local routes and connect to major subway stations and bus terminals; red buses act like a commuter service, travelling from the suburbs to the downtown and metropolitan areas; yellow buses serve small local areas. Taxis are also widely available throughout the city and some are equipped with telephone to a free interpreter if you need to communicate to a taxi driver who doesn’t speak English, though it’s still worth having a map and having your destination written down in Korean just in case.
Highlight: Seoul
With over 10 million residents and counting, Seoul has one of the biggest urban sprawls in the world. It’s bulging, brash and big but remains true to its roots. It has been the capital since the beginning of the Joseon Dynasty in the14th century and has managed to retain its centuries-old palaces, temples and shrines. On a contemporary level, it exists in spruced-up splendour with a presence firmly felt on the international front; it hosted the 1988 Olympics and co-hosted the 2002 Soccer World Cup. Its main artery, the Han River, runs east to west and serves as a convenient marker; to the north lies the old city, the cultural and historical hub, while the south side is the city at it’s most glisteningly modern.Swathed in history, Seoul has no less than five royal palaces with each providing an enticing look back to the past. Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1392 though since restored, features royal apartments, pavilions and lotus ponds, and its grounds house the National Palace Museum and the National Folk Museum. A UNESCO listed site, Changdeokgung Palace has been restored to preserve the architectural style of the Joseon dynasty and has the added allure of a secret garden. The Chongmyo Royal Ancestral Shrines are also UNESCO listed and offer a fascinating insight into the country’s Joseon dynasty. Standing defiant amidst gleaming office blocks and roaring traffic in the centre of Seoul is the Namdaemun (also known as the Great South Gate), one of the city’s major and most treasured landmarks. It is one of four main gates of the old city wall, dating back to the 14th century, and best typifies the co-existence of the ancient and modern in the city.
In and around the city, there is a choice of amusement parks for big kids at heart, including the Disney-esque Everland which also boasts white-knuckle rides, and also Lotte World, a huge indoor theme park with rides, shops and restaurants galore. For splurging on fashion goods, the Myeongdong district is abound with malls and department stores, while Apgujeong has more upscale offerings like Gucci and Prada. For a dose of consumerism in less full-on commercial surrounds, the city’s markets are a nudge towards a more authentic Korean shopping experience and kinder to the wallet. Namdaemun Market is the biggest traditional market and has a selection of clothing, accessories and other wares to choose from.
The Han river is a hub of activity with sightseeing cruise ships, water sports and riverside cycling. Windsurfers are a regular sight on the river, particularly from early March to mid October. Water skiers, wake boarders and kite boarders also make up the mix. While the river is teeming with water lovers escaping the buzz of city life, the island of Yeoui-do on the Han River is a bustling metropolis likened to a mini-Manhattan; it’s also the country’s political centre. The National Assembly and Seoul stock exchange are among the island’s skyscrapers.
Seoul’s Olympic legacy lives on at the Olympic Park which is open to the public and used for sport, leisure and cultural activities. As you would expect, it has swimming pools, tennis courts and gymnasiums, as well as a museum and sculptures commemorating the Games. It’s a good place for energising, relaxing or people watching. There are other recreational respites amongst Seoul’s urban jungle, including Boramae Park, a former site for the Korean Air Force, which is now parkland. Situated in the centre of the city, Mount Namsan Park is adorned with pine trees, wild animals and fresh mountain air. It also provides one of the best vantage points from which to view the city; Seoul Tower, which is situated in the park, features an observation tower from where it’s possible to take in the entire city.
With its range of clubs and bars it’s not difficult to unleash the inner party beast in Seoul. Some areas are more refined than others though. It’aewon is popular with westerners and is known for its red-light sleaziness. Hongdae, the area that’s home to Hongik University, is more of an authentic night out in South Korea; it delivers a cool, artsy scene with live music, bars and pool halls. On the last Friday of every month it has its much celebrated Club Day which sees thousands living it up in the area’s hottest nightspots; for a set price (currently 15,000 won) clubbers can go into any one of the 13 or so participating clubs that range from rock to hip hop. Sinchon is a student area that’s a happy mix of bars, clubs and restaurants and caters for different musical tastes. It’s a young professional crowd that frequents Gangnam’s late night clubs and bars. The area also features video game arcades and movie theatres for quieter nights out, but also caters for the late night crowed with its 4am club closings and all-night street food vendors.
There are also destinations around Seoul that are worth breaking away from the city’s pull for. The Korean Folk Village, an open-air museum, is a major visitor attraction and gives a good insight into traditional Korean culture. It features restored traditional houses circa the late Joseon Dynasty period, a traditional marketplace selling handicrafts and re-creations of traditional ceremonies as well as regular acrobatic performances. Rooted in harsh reality, the village of Panmunjeom, northwest of Seoul, is where truce negotiations between North and South were held at the time of the Korean War and is located in the middle of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). Visitors are only permitted as part of an organised tour, there are various tour companies offering different tours of the area and also the Joint Security Area (JSA). Tours should be arranged several days in advance. Aside from the clinical looking conference rooms and desolate atmosphere, one of the main points of interest is the Bridge of No Return (located in the JSA) where prisoners of war were given the choice of crossing the bridge or staying with their captors; the bridge is now closed, and the geographical and ideological separation between the North and South remains.
Useful Links
www.lonelyplanet.comLonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
www.kobus.co.kr
Express bus information from Express Bus Lines Association.
www.korail.go.kr
National train operator Korail.
