The Philippines

A little bit of history...

Archaeological finds show that the Philippines were inhabited around 250,000 years ago, most likely by migrating groups from the Asian mainland. The Negrito groups settled 200,000 years later and were followed by groups from Indonesia and Malaysia. Shaping the country’s cultural diversity, Chinese, Arab and Indonesian traders arrived by the 11th century. The country fell to Spanish rule from the 16th until the end of the 19th century, albeit with a two year period (1762-1764) when the British occupied Manila during the Seven Years War. Meanwhile, a movement for national freedom was gathering momentum with revolutionaries such as José Rizal paving the way for independence. Following the Spanish-American war, the US gained control of the Philippines, and Japan occupied the country during WW II, but it wasn’t until 1946 that the country finally secured full independence.

Post-independence, the political landscape was dogged by instability and corruption. In 1965 Ferdinand Marcos came to power and by 1972 had declared Martial Law. His notorious reign was effectively that of a dictatorship with imposed curfews and restrictions, while government protesters were harshly dealt with. The assassination of political opponent Benigno (Ninoy) Aquino in 1983 caused widespread condemnation of the Marcos regime. The 1986 election saw Marcos declare himself winner but he was swiftly overthrown and Aquino’s widow Corazon Aquino came to power while the Marcos’s were exiled to Hawaii. Aquino drafted in a new constitution to re-establish democracy and managed to survive numerous coups, but the economy remained in dire condition. She was succeeded by Fidel Ramos in 1992 who engineered economic reforms and peace talks with rebel groups and Muslim insurgents. Stability was short-lived when Joseph Estrada was elected as president 1998 but by 2001 had been impeached over allegations of corruption.

The current government, headed Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, has also faced its fair share of scandal. Shortly after being elected for a second term in 2004, allegations of election fraud were rife. She has managed to sit tight but the government’s stability is threatened by armed communist insurgents and Muslim separatists in the south.

Best time to go...

Oppressive humidity and hellish typhoons are the evils of the Philippines’s tropical climate. To avoid the weather extremes, December to mid-May are good times to visit when the heavy rains are at bay and it’s slightly cooler, but expect hot temperatures around May when high 30ËšC’s are the norm. The wet season prevails from June to October with July and August the most rain-drenched. The crowds are out in full around Christmas and Easter time so it’s best to book accommodation and travel well in advance.

Getting around...

There’s a variety of airlines that serve both the main and more remote destinations. Philippine Airlines is the national carrier, while Air Philippines, South East Asian Airlines, Asian Spirit and Cebu Pacific also serve the main domestic routes. Charter services are also provided by companies such as A. Soriano Aviation and Aerolift Philippines which operate small to medium sized planes. Be prepared for flight restrictions or cancellations during the wet season, the same applies for ferries.

For a more scenic way of island hopping, ferries are readily available with the main operators such as SuperFerry offering regular services and it’s not uncommon for trips, including Manila to Cebu, to take over 20 hours. The Philippines, however, has a poor safety record when it comes to boat travel so it’s worth being aware of the weather conditions for the journey ahead and not boarding a boat that appears to be overcrowded. Manila is the main departure point and be prepared for scores of touts trying to cash in on the tourist trade.

Train travel is limited to one line running from Manila to Naga, making long-distance bus the obvious choice for overland travel. It’s also possible to island-hop without sailing along the waterways, with highways connecting the main islands. There’s a choice of bus companies including Victory Liner and Philippine Rabbit. The major car rental companies have a presence but it’s advisable to hire a car with a driver since road conditions vary and the driving, especially in large cities like Manila, can be erratic.

An idiosyncratic feature on the country’s roads is the much loved jeepney. Colourfully decorated, these modified jeeps have been lengthened and have added seats to accommodate up to 20 people. They serve the local environs as well as connecting towns and cities and are dirt cheap. Like taxis, there’s no shortage of them and they can easily be flagged down. In addition, vans, tricycles (a motorbike with sidecars), pedicabs (bicycles with sidecars) and calesas, which are horse drawn carriages that ply the tourist trade, make up the quirky transport mix.

Useful links

www.lonelyplanet.com

www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.

www.airphils.com
Air Philippines.

www.asianspirit.com
Domestic airline Asian Spirit.

www.cebupacificair.com
Domestic airline Cebu Pacific.

www.philippineairlines.com
Philippine Airlines.

www.superferry.com.ph

Ferry operator SuperFerry.

www.victoryliner.com

Bus company Victory Liner.