Peru
A little bit of history...
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Home to a myriad of advanced Andean civilisations, Peru is renowned as the centre of the vast Inca Empire which extended its influence through to parts of Ecuador and Chile from the 13th century onwards. The Inca’s lost control to the Spanish who colonised the country in the 16th century and exploited the country for gold and silver. It wasn’t until 300 years later that Simón Bolívar and José de San Martín achieved independence for Peru. Post-independence, the country was racked by a border dispute with Chile which resulted in Peru losing part of its land. Conflict erupted between Ecuador in 1941 over land ownership and Peru emerged the victor, but not without repercussions in 1981 and 1995; an agreement was made between the countries in 1998.
From 1968 the country was under military rule until it returned to a democracy-led government in 1980. However, its stability was weakened throughout much of the 1980s due to economic woes and the rise of left-wing terrorist organisations. In recent years Peru’s political landscape has been tainted with tales of scandal and corruption, and threats from rebels. The country is making strides towards a more stabilised future with the government intending to improve social conditions, develop its export business and grow its economy.
Best time to go…
Peru’s southern hemisphere location dictates that its dry summers are from December to March and its wet winter months run between April and November. Its dynamic landscape means there are regional variations to consider. The coastal region is hot and sunny during summer, while the winter period is characterised by cooler temperatures, though still humid, and a hazy mist is a frequent occurrence. Year-round the waters are cool to cold and only get comfortably warm in the most northern coastal areas. In the Andes, the best time to go trekking is from June to September when the area is at its driest though the nights can get distinctively cool. The Amazon jungle is at its best from May to September after the heavy rains have subsided and the water levels have dropped making it easier to access remote areas by boat and catch sight of rare wildlife.
Getting around...
Time-saving but budget busting, flying is a convenient way of crossing Peru’s huge distances. Major cities are no more than a two hour flight from Lima and domestic carriers Lan Peru, Aerocondor and Star Peru offer flights to prime destinations. Smaller carriers such as LC Busre provide charter services to more remote destinations. In addition, at Lima’s Jorge Chavez airport, the main flight hub, there are also several independent companies that have light aircraft destined for areas off the beaten track. It’s essential to confirm flight bookings 72 hours before departure and to get to the airport 2 hours before take off. Airlines have been known to bump people off flights for not arriving ahead of time and giving the seats to those on the waiting list. There is also a departure tax for all domestic flights, currently $7.
The most popular way of getting around is by bus. The distances can be arduous – the road trip from Lima to Cuzco is 20 hours compared to an hour’s flying time – but there are some redeeming features to be had from staring at the open road for hours on end. It’s inexpensive and there are regular services between major places of interest. In remote areas, buses can amount to rough and ready trucks but in towns and cities comfort is at hand in the shape of luxurious buses, such as bus company Cruz del Sur, whose fleet are equipped with reclining seats, air-conditioning and other mod cons. It’s best to travel by day as armed robberies have been known to occur at night. The existence of police checkpoints en route means it’s imperative to have your passport close at hand.
Although expensive and limited compared to the country’s bus network, trains in Peru work better as visitor attractions than a means of getting around. PeruRail operates the main scenic routes, including Cusco to Machu Picchu which takes less than four hours. On a comfort level, trains in Peru vary from hard-seated, overcrowded carriages in economy class to expensive, comfortable seating complete with a dining area and waitress service, as well as better security, in its top class carriages.
The main car rental companies such as Avis and Hertz have a presence in Peru but it takes an experienced driver to tackle the country’s roads. Driving in Lima or excessively long distances is not advisable. A more practical route would be to fly to your given destination and rent a car for shorter distances.
Getting around the local environs is an easy feat, with an abundance of buses and taxis to choose from. Local buses consist of micros (small buses) and combis (essentially vans that run as private buses), as well as colectivos which are like combis that cover regular routes between towns. Fares are cheap, space is limited and the buses can easily be flagged down from the side of the road. Taxis are readily available but be aware of the flux of unregistered taxis that ply for trade. Also, it’s necessary to negotiate a fare before the getting into a taxi.
Useful links
www.lonelyplanet.comLonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas
www.aerocondor.com.pe
Domestic airline Aerocondor
www.cruzdelsur.com.pe
Bus company Cruz del Sur
www.lcbusre.com.pe
Domestic airline LC Busre
www.lanperu.com
Domestic airline Lan Peru
www.perurail.com
Railway operator PeruRail
www.starperu.com
Domestic airline Star Peru
www.wayra.com.pe
Domestic airline Wayra Peru
