Nepal

A little bit of history...

Nepal Country Guide Nestled between India and China, Nepal has endured tumultuous periods that have enriched its culture but, at times, rocked its foundations. The earliest inhabitants are recorded as being the Kiratis who arrived in around the 7th century and it was also around this time that Buddhism was beginning to be practised in the country. With the dominance of the Licchavis people from the late 5th century until the 9th century, Hinduism replaced Buddhism as the main religion. They introduced the caste system that still exists today, and the period is regarded as a golden age during which Nepali art and architecture flourished. A blip in the country’s advancement occurred during the reign of the succeeding Thakuri dynasty which was marred by invasion and conflict. Following the prosperous period of the Mallas which saw the country divided into city-states each with their own armies, the Shah dynasty set about unifying the country. King Prithvi Narayan Shah from the kingdom of Gorkha, considered to be the founder of the nation, conquered the Kathmandu valley from the 18th century onwards. The expansion of the Shahs and Nepal’s growing boundaries led to conflict with the Chinese in Tibet and the British in India.

A swift shift in power took place in 1846 when Jung Bahadur Rana, a noble from western Nepal, engineered a revolt that led to the annihilation, known as the Kot massacre, of the nation’s most powerful figures. He became prime minister and made the title hereditary. In 1951, the system of rule changed when the Shah’s power was restored and King Tribhuvan set up a new government with a cabinet of Rana and Nepal Congress Party ministers. The path to democracy was short lived and by 1959 the King rejected the notion of a democratically elected government and resumed direct control.

It wasn’t until 1990 that a multi-party democracy was established but has since been threatened by what is known as the People’s War, an insurgency by the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist). The country was shaken in 2001 when the crown prince murdered members of the royal family, including the king and queen, and ended his own life. Until April 2006, King Gyanendra held absolute power after dissolving the government for its proposed lack of success in dealing with the Maoist rebels and corruption; a state of emergency was declared. The King has since relinquished his power to political parties and with the 2007 elections looming, long-term stability is yet to be realised. Meanwhile, the government and the Maoist signed a peace deal in November 2006, making steps toward a permanent ceasefire and an end to the conflict that has so far claimed thousands of lives.

Best time to go...

The most popular time to visit Nepal is October to November, the start of the dry season when the temperatures are agreeable and the high elevated areas are at their most accessible for trekkers. December to January are less crowded but still an opportune time to reach the mountainous heights though the weather can get colder at higher elevations and there is the possibility of snow to contend with. February to April is also a good time for trekking and to see flora in bloom. The temperatures are mild but can reach high temperatures in low elevated areas. Trekking and scenic views are obscured by the onset of the monsoon season from mid June to September. Although trekking is still possible, frequent rains make for muddy roads, a greater chance of landslides and the reappearance of unsightly leeches.

Getting around...

There’s no denying that Nepal has some of the best named airlines in the world, where else could you board carriers called Yeti Airlines, Cosmic Air and Buddha Air? Fanciful names aside, there is a good choice of carriers available that serve the major routes and remote locations with the main flight hubs based at Kathmandu, Pokhara, Nepalganj and Britanagar. Royal Nepal Airlines is the national airline and has an extensive network of flights. It’s not uncommon for flights to be cancelled due to bad weather and is essential to reconfirm flights. Booking domestic flights a week in advance is advisable.

Bus travel is the main mode of ground transportation. These slow moving road hounds are cramped but cheap, and safety is major issue with crashes not all that uncommon. For a less daunting experience it’s best to ride on one of the designated tourist buses that mainly operate between Kathmandu and Pokhara. These are worth the extra cost for the added comfort and safety features. Night time bus travel should be avoided. Trains are limited to one line that runs from Jankapur to the Indian border; foreigners are not permitted to cross the border.

A convenient option is to rent a car with a driver (it’s not possible to rent a self-drive car). It’s sure to be quicker and more comfortable than travelling by bus and can work out more cost-effective than flying, depending on where you want to go and for how long. Rental can be readily arranged in the main populous areas and at hotels and guest houses. Small motorcycles can be rented but are best kept to day trips due to the rocky road conditions and lack of engine power.

Local transport covers a myriad of options including buses, tempos (three-wheeled buses), rickshaws and taxis. Bikes can be rented in Kathmandu and Pokhara and is probably the quickest and most pleasant way to get around. Good old fashioned walking is not to be sniffed at, especially in a land that is a trekker’s mecca, as it can be the most reliable form of getting from A to B.