Mexico
A little bit of history…
Mexico’s roots lie in Mesoamerican and Amerindian civilizations that laid claim to the land long before the Spanish proclaimed the country as part of its New Spain conglomerate. The Olmec, Teotihuacan, Toltec, Aztec and Maya were the major civilizations whose influence shaped the country for over 3,000 years, beginning with the Olmec whose origins are believed to date as far back as 2300 B.C. When the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan was conquered by the Spanish in 1521, it was the beginning of an era of colonial rule which lasted for over 300 years. Despite proclaiming independence from Spain in 1810, the 19th century saw Mexico locked in conflict with the United States over territory which resulted in Mexico’s loss of Texas and part of California to the States.
Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, Mexico endured an unstable political and economic climate that saw French military occupation, a revolution (1910), the monopoly of the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) and tensions between church and state. The new millennium, however, has seen signs of political change in the country. For the first time in 70 years, the 2000 elections saw an end to PRI rule, the first time the opposition had defeated the party in government; the National Action Party (PAN) was sworn into office in 2000. After experiencing its worst recession for over 25 years in 1994 after the devaluation of the peso, Mexico is moving towards economic recovery and a more stable future.
Best time to go…
As hot and humid as it may be, the climate can vary depending on where you go. The rainy season for the southern part of the country runs from May to mid October when tropical showers tend to pour down in the late afternoon and only usually last for a couple of hours. While in the north, wind and rain take force from November to mid January. The Yucatán Peninsula and the southern Pacific coast are particularly vulnerable during hurricane season, from June to October. June to August sees the hottest temperatures throughout the country, while high elevation areas, such as Mexico City, are cooler in the evening, stretching to freezing during the winter nights. The main vacation times are during Easter, Christmas and from July to August when tourists are out in full force.
Getting around…
Adjacent to the USA, Mexico looks deceptively small in comparison. It’s huge. For those with little time, but money to spend, flying is a worthwhile option. Mexico’s airline industry is currently undergoing de-regulation, paving the way for cheaper fares. Low-cost airline Click Mexicana launched recently and flies to around 16 destinations in Mexico and selected destinations in the USA. Most flight routes in Mexico involve a change in Mexico City.
For those with more time, driving is good way to see the country. Roads between Mexico’s major towns and cities have been upgraded in recent years and tolls are in existence. On old interstate roads, it’s free to use the road but it’s likely to be slower. Car rental prices are in high in comparison to the US and prices don’t usually include sales tax, which is around 15 per cent.
Buses, meanwhile, are kinder to the budget and take the hassle out of needing to know your route inside out and accommodating for unforeseen costs. The country has a comprehensive bus network, the crème de la crème of the bus system being its first class buses. A good option for long distance travel, these only travel on toll roads and have comforts like air-conditioning and toilets. Second class buses are, like they sound, not as quick or comfortable as first class. They may stop at several towns and villages along the way and standards can vary.
For travel in towns and cities, local buses are plentiful and are usually packed to the rafters but they are cheap. Another popular mode of local transport are Micros or peseros, low-cost mini vans. Taxis are also in abundance in towns and cities. In Mexico City, it’s advisable to get taxis from a sitio (taxi rank) as it’s safer than hailing a private cab. Outside of the city, it’s safer to hail but helps if you speak a bit of Spanish. Fares are usually metered or charged by which zone you are traveling to and from.
Sights and Sounds...
Mexico’s dynamic landscape dutifully reflects its timeline, from Mayan treasures in the Yucatan Peninsula through to heavy industrialised cities, and countless breathtaking vistas in between. With its blend of Native American and Spanish heritage, the country embodies a timeless appeal and a host of unexpected delights.
The North
The Northern region’s desert landscape is adorned with beautiful beaches and archaeological treasures, yet it also has a fluidity and vibrancy that is characterised by the city of Monterrey, the main hub of the north and the third largest city in the country. Economically important and big on business, the city also boasts a wide scope of man-made and natural attractions. Starkly contrasted with its ultra-modern high rises and traffic din, the city has retained its colonial charm and the 18th century Bishop’s palace, Obispado, is one of the highlights and provides great views of the city. The main gathering point of the city is in and around the Macroplaza, a modern complex of civic splendour including parks, entertainment and museums. The top-notch modern art exhibited at Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MARCO) is a must-see, as is the visionary architectural structure that it’s housed in.
Breaking away from the urban stronghold, Monterrey’s scenic surrounding area has a lot to offer intrepid day-trippers. Horse-rides to the waterfalls at Cascada Cola de Caballo National Park are a popular excursion, as do the caves and underground lake at Villa Garcia. One of the largest national park’s in the country, Cumbres de Monterrey National Park, is a rock climber’s haven with limestone cliffs set against pine and oak forests. Chipinque Ecological Park, a nature reserve, also exists within the park and is teeming with bird and mammal species, while the expanse of Huasteca Canyon is an awe-inspiring blend of rock formations and exotic flora and fauna.
The state of Chihuahua, the largest in Mexico, is an outdoor pleasure dome with numerous nature parks offering ideal terrain for mountain biking and rock climbing. For archaeology buffs, the Paquimé Ruins, located in the northwest, display the remains of an ancient settlement that flourished between AD 900 and 1340, through a network of worn walls and passageways. One of the state’s biggest draws is the epic Copper Canyon railway. This ultra-scenic rail journey departs from the Los Mochic on the Pacific Coast and arrives at the city of Chihuahua around 13 hours later after taking in the views of colossal canyons, deep ravines and rugged mountain-sides. There are several stops along the way which include colonial towns, quaint villages and the chance to buy handicrafts made by the Tarahumara people, descendents of the Aztecs.
Baja California
The Baja California peninsular forms the northwest region of Mexico and is a beach bather’s paradise with huge stretches of coast-line and a host of water-based flights of fancy on tap. Its frontier-flavoured border towns and dramatic scenery also adds a distinct dimension.
The city of Tijuana is the first port of call for most visitors arriving into Mexico by land from the US. Very much driven toward the day-tripper crowd, it has cleaned up in recent years to rid itself of the dubious associations given to border towns; here, you’re more likely to come across souvenirs than sleaze. It moves at a frenzied pace to the beat of shoppers pounding the duty-free malls and bustling markets and the lure of late-night clubs and bars. To escape the commotion, the beaches at Rosarito are less than an hour’s bus ride away and are calmer and cleaner than those at Tijuana.
The port city of Ensenada, located less than two hours south of Tijuana, is a surfer’s haunt and also home to some top windsurfing spots. Its waters are also graced by the California gray whale; it’s possible to catch sight of their migration to the Pacific coast on whale-watching tours which run daily from December to March. Another top whale-watching destination can be found at Laguna San Ignacio, which is located half way down the peninsular, and is also a prime spot for bird-watching.
In the southern reaches of the Peninsular, La Paz is a popular destination for its beaches and tropical islands. The islands of Espiritu Santo and Cerralvo make for good scuba diving spots thanks to a rich mix of marine life including manta rays and hammerhead sharks, while sea lions can be found at Los Islotes.
Central
Teeming with ancient sites and colonial constructions, Central Mexico may be the country’s historical nucleus but the region’s essence is as much about the future as it is about the past thanks to the sprawling capital that is Mexico City (see Highlight section). Surrounding the city lie a host of eye-popping archaeological sites that ignite the imagination. Teotihuacán, once the centre of a pre-Hispanic empire and the forbearer of the Aztecs, is a mesmerising display of ancient palaces and temples that made it Mexico’s biggest ancient city. The main draw are the pyramids which rank among some of the largest in the world. North of the site is the city of Tula which superseded Teotihuacán in the power stakes with the rise of the Toltec empire; pyramids and stone warrior figures cut an intriguing image.
The king of all Mexico’s ancient pyramids, however, is to be found at Cholula. It was once a significant city in pre-Hispanic times but its churches and temples were laid to ruin following the onslaught of the Spanish conquest. The site’s shining glory, the largest pyramid in Mexico, no longer resembles a pyramid in the traditional sense; it is now an overgrown mound with a church on top but still makes for an enigmatic landmark and provides for some great views of the Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl volcanoes. The site is close to the city of Puebla which is one of the largest centres in the country and, despite its industrial growth, contains well-preserved period architecture from its days as a key colonial player. Of the city’s collection of stunning churches, its cathedral, one of the largest in the country, is a particular gem; it should be seen from the inside for its ornate decoration. Puebla is at its most buzzing during the month of May, especially on May 5, when Cinco de Mayo (a national public holiday) is celebrated to commemorate the Mexican defeat of French forces at Pueblo in 1872.
There’s also ample opportunity to do a spot of shopping in the region. One of the largest markets in the country is to be found in the city of Toluca, located west of Mexico City. Its market reaches a crescendo on Fridays when hordes of visitors turn out to browse and buy from the thousands of stalls that sell a range of wares from cheap imported goods to local crafts. The old silver mining town of Taxco is another shopper’s paradise with hundreds of shops selling silver jewellery. It’s a pleasant place to while away a few hours within the steep hills, cobbled streets and colonial buildings.
The central coastal state of Veracruz, on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, is one of the country’s least tourist-driven areas, not helped by it being one of the wettest in the country, but even during the rainy season the short heavy downpours are followed by blazing sunshine, and its sights certainly warrant a visit. The state capital Xalapa (also known as Jalapa) is a lively university town with a burgeoning café scene and a cultural hotspot. It has one of the best archaeological museums in the country, the Museum of Anthropology, which provides a good introduction to pre-Hispanic cultures through a collection of huge stone structures, intricate masks and pottery. To see an ancient city at first hand, head north to the El Tajín, one of the most important archaeological sites in the country, and once the capital of the Totonac state. Totonac culture still remains strong in the nearby town of Papantla, most notably through the unique dance of the Voldaroes whereby four performers, tied to ropes atop a pole, spin and spiral down to the sound of flute and drum to signify the cycle of the Aztec calendar.
Though the state may not possess a raft of beautiful beaches on par with its Pacific and Caribbean facing counterparts, it still harbours areas of true beauty and knows how to party with the best of them. The port city of Veracruz is wrapped in history but its vibe the very much about the here and now. It serves up a vivacious nightlife where it’s possible to dance to anything from salsa and electronica, through to mariachi bands and marimba music (a fusion of Latin and Caribbean rhythms). The city hits fever pitch in February when its annual carnaval struts through the streets. For picture-postcard ambiance, a trip to Catemaco is a popular weekend getaway for city dwellers. The glorious lakeside setting offers beaches and wildlife-rich islands and is also home to the last tract of Mexican rainforest. It’s also known to be a spiritual centre and a meeting place for witches and healers, as well as a place for Catholic pilgrimage.
The South
Eco-treasures and sizzling beaches abound in the South, which makes the most of its Pacific Ocean and Gulf of Mexico coastlines and extend beyond the famed resort of Acapulco. In addition, a strong traditional presence exists in the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas. Indigenous language, culture and crafts are particularly prevalent in Oaxaca where an eco-friendly initiative has been developed whereby tourists can stay in designated accommodation, known as Tourist Yu'us, within traditional villages in the central valley. The city of Oaxaca also boasts bustling indigenous markets, as well as a quaint colonial centre and is a haven for artists. On the beach front, tranquil shores can still be found in the state despite a recent raft of development that has given rise to a number of resorts. The Pacific coastal village of Mazunte is one of the more relaxing spots and has turned its attentions to eco-tourism having ceased its illegal turtle trade and focused its efforts on preserving these charming creatures; the town even has a turtle museum. There’s also a chance to snap up natural, locally grown cosmetics from the Natural Cosmetics Factory, which was set up by the founder of the Body Shop, in line with the area’s conservation intent.
Of course, archaeological splendour isn’t far away and Monte Albán, a UNESCO World Heritage site which was once the centre of the ancient Zapotec civilisation, is home to remnants of stone structures including a ball court, temples and tombs, all within easy travelling distance from Oaxaca City. The state’s natural wonders are just as alluring and include The Chacahua Lagoons National Park, which can be reached from the beach resort town of Puerto Escondido. This water-filled wonderland also covers dunes, mangroves and savannas and is home to an assortment of wildlife including crocodiles and iguanas.
The southernmost state of Chiapas is also awash with natural beauty and is one of the most bio-diverse areas, covering jungle, canyons and waterfalls with a smattering of Mayan ruins for cultural measure. One of the most popular Mayan sites is situated at Palenque which is adorned with remains of temples and palaces amid a jungle backdrop. San Cristóbal de las Casas is the state’s main visitor hub and a useful jumping off point for visiting traditional villages or embarking on excursions through weird and wonderful rock formations like the huge cavern at Grutas de Rancho Nuevo.
The Yucatán
The Yucatán, Mexico’s south eastern region, was the centre of the Mayan civilisation and up until the late 20th century and was isolated from much of the country. It has since rapidly developed into a vacation haven thanks to top-class destinations like Cancun and Cozumel, while its Mayan heritage lives on through language, culture and traditions. Sandwiched between the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, it’s the country’s hottest and most tropical region with extreme topography ranging from rock-strewn landscapes to rainforest.
Chichén Itzá is the most visited of all the Mayan sites, which is testament to its size and level of restoration. It’s by far the largest site in The Yucatán and is dominated by El Castillo, a huge pyramid adorned with a temple. Inside the pyramid is a smaller, older pyramid that houses one of the site’s greatest finds: a red throne in the form of a jaguar with real jaguar teeth, jade spots and eyes. The site is located between Cancún and Mérida, and is within a day’s bus ride from both. With its all-inclusive resorts, white-sand beaches and frenetic nightlife, Cancún is the obvious choice for a sojourn in the sun. It is one of Mexico’s biggest crowd pullers and most visitors head for the ‘hotel zone’ while the locals live in the downtown area. Though Mérida, the Yucatán state capital, may not have enjoyed the same level of international fame as Cancún, it is worthy of a long stay. Known as the ‘White City’ for its limestone buildings, it harbours a selection of Mayan sites and beaches in its midst and colonial charm at its core. Paseo de Montejo, the main thoroughfare, is lined with the old and the new in the form of 19th century mansions, modern sculptures and hotels; the hub of city life can be found at Plaza Mayor which is ringed by fine colonial architecture including a 16th century cathedral.
The colonial era is also exquisitely represented at city of Campeche from its days as the Peninsula’s principal port. The fortified walls still stand from the days when pirates were a threat, and it boasts one of the oldest churches on the Peninsula. It’s a fast-growing city but has managed to maintain a quaint charm, and Mayan sites and bio-diverse areas can be found within the local environs; the major Mayan site of Calakmul, part of the jungle-infused Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, is one of the largest and has the tallest pyramid in the Mayan world.
One of the country’s largest protected areas, Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve, is located in the state of Quintana Roo and covers land, sea and Mayan ruins. The tropical rainforests and mangroves are home to a vast array of species from jaguars to deer, while the Caribbean sands provide sanctuary for endangered turtles. The remote village of Punta Allen is the largest in the reserve and offers accommodation and other amenities that make it a useful base.
The region’s Caribbean islands, namely Cozumel and Isla Mujeres, are paradise-esque above and below the water thanks to the Great Mayan Reef, the second largest reef in the world. Cozumel is the more tourist-developed of the two islands and is a popular stop-off on the cruise ship route. Added to its fine beaches and lively nightlife, it is ranked among the best dive sites in the world.
Highlight: Mexico City
Like all great cities, Mexico City is a place of jarring extremes filled with the very best and worst of urban life. As one of the largest and most populous cities in the world (in excess of 20 million people), it’s a full-on experience; world class museums, ancient sites and colonial elegance exist amid slums, pollution and grime. The good far outweighs the bad, and to understand Mexico is to spend time in its heartland.
Built on the ruins of the capital of the Aztec Empire, Centro Historico, the old centre, is a good introduction into the city. Most of the action is centred round the Zócalo (also known as Plaza de la Constitución) which is the second largest city square in the world. It’s ringed by colonial-era buildings that are at the core of the country’s political and religious consciousness, most notably the Presidential Palace and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Over the years the square has been the prime setting for a host of events from government protests to festival revelry but on more even-keel days is frequented by tourists, vendors, buskers and people-watchers.
An oasis of calm amid the city roar, Bosque de Chapultepec is the largest park in the city and has all the trimmings including boating lakes, playing fields, museums and a zoo. One of the park’s main attractions is the fascinating National Museum of Anthropology which houses extensive exhibits on pre-Hispanic civilisations through to modern indigenous communities. The downtown area of the city is also graced with a generous green space in the shape of Alameda Central which also owes part of its allure to a top-class cultural centre: the Palace of Fine Arts, which boasts a concert hall and two museums that include artistic masterpieces from the country’s most revered artists like Diego Rivera, as well as a plethora of paintings and sculpture. A few blocks away at Plaza Garibaldi you’re sure to come across a feast for the ears in the twilight hours when hundreds of mariachi bands descend on the square and compete for the attentions of revellers and passer-bys.
The Zona Rosa district provides a suitable alternative to sightseeing with an array of boutiques, restaurants and bars. Nearby Condesa has earned itself a reputation as a restaurant hub and has plenty to satisfy gastro-aficionados. The upmarket suburb of Polanco also serves up some fine dining and its boulevards are lined with high-priced hotels and designer boutiques. For more affordable threads, the city has no shortage of markets with La Merced the largest with a varied concoction of fresh produce through to household wares. The real beauty of Mexico City, however, is that you don’t need to earmark districts or sightseeing spots to feel a sense of in city life; it’s all around, from the street side stalls to the ad-hoc dance and musical performances, it’s a city that knows how to make the most of it its attributes.
Useful links
www.lonelyplanet.com
Lonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
www.aeromexico.com
Domestic airline Aeromexio flies to destinations in Mexico and to the States.
www.mexicana.com
Domestic airline Mexicana and low-cost carrier Click Mexicana fly to, in, around and out of Mexico.
