Laos
A little bit of history...
Laos started off on its journey to becoming the country we know today in the 14th century as the Kingdom of Lan Xang. The first King, Chao Fa Ngum, established Theravada Buddhism as the state religion but proved too ruthless a ruler and was replaced by his son, Phaya Samsenthai. Phaya was a prosperous and innovative King, turning Lan Xang into a trade centre and expanding the kingdom to Champa and along the Annamite mountains in Vietnam. Unfortunately his successors did not share the same skills and Lan Xang split into warring factions until it was united under the rule of Sourigna Vongsa, whose reign was considered to be a cultural and financial golden age on a par with the European renaissance.
After his death Lan Xang split into 3 regions; Luang Prang in the north, Vientiane in the centre and Champasak in the south. The areas were overrun by Siam (Thailand) and remained under Siamese rule until the 19th century when French forces took control and Laos became part of the French empire in South East Asia. Laos was united under French rule and as a less important part of the empire received little French influence. It remained under French rule, with a brief Japanese invasion in 1945, until 1953 when Laos became an independent, constitutional monarchy.
The country was, however, still much divided, a power struggle between royalist governments supported by the USA and the Pro-Communist Paphet Lao assisted by their allies the Viet Minh turned into civil war, which raged until 1975 when communist rule was victorious and ‘Lao People's Democratic Republic’ was formed.
Laos remains a communist country but with the introduction of market reforms in 1986 its economy has steadily improved and the future for a stable and economically sound Laos looks bright!
Sights and sounds
Laos is finally emerging as a top travel destination after years of war and isolation and it’s not hard to see why. Not only is there an abundance of natural beauty to feast your eyes on, Laos has also managed to hold on to many of its traditions and stay largely untouched by the modern world, making a fascinating cultural spot too.
The capital city of Vientiane has a village-like feel and is an eclectic mixture of colonial French architecture, noodle bars and bustling markets. Based on the Mekong riverside, this tranquil backwater is the perfect place to absorb life in Laos and take in local sights from Buddha Park to the Morning market.
The historic and UNESCO Heritage listed city of Luang Prabang, is one of Laos brightest gems. Encircled by mountains and 700m above sea level, Luang Prabang is a world away from the modern metropolises that dominate much of Asia, where you can watch saffron-clad monks collecting alms at dawn and visit ancient wonders such as the stunning Wat Xieng Thong monastery.
Nature lovers can visit the nearby Kuang Si Falls and take a dip in picturesque pools or delve into the Pak Ou Caves, otherwise known as ‘the Buddha caves’, worth visiting by canoe to take in the local scenery and avoid the crowds. While the mysterious Plain of Jars, near Phonsavan, is also a popular destination for culture vultures, hundreds of stone jars scatter the landscape and create an awe-inspiring sight.
There’s plenty here for adventure hungry travellers too, southern Laos is home to Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), an archipelago on the Mekong River where you can visit the largest waterfall in South East Asia, Khone Phapheng, and spot endangered dolphins. Or head to Pakse in the Champassak province, the perfect place to get a taste of local life before setting off for an elephant ride in the Boloven Plateau. Adrenalin junkies will also find a range of activities to get involved with including kayaking, rafting, rock-climbing, biking and community-based treks.
Best time to go...
Laos’s climate is generally hot and tropical with the rainy season between May and October, when temperatures are high reaching an average of around 40°C. The dry season runs from November to April, with the best time to make your trip between November and February when downpours are at their least frequent and it isn’t too hot, this is also the main season for both of the national festivals, where you’ll see local culture in full swing. January is usually the most popular month with visitors seeking to get the best of the weather.
If you plan to visit the mountainous Northern provinces, the hot season (from March to May) and early rainy season (around June) may prove a good time to go as the temperatures will be cooler at higher elevations. Travel in the Southern regions may well be hampered by the rain, which makes getting anywhere a challenge and exploration by boat almost a necessity, good news for adventure travellers though!
Getting around
With more than 4600km of navigable rivers, water is the traditional means of travel in Laos, with the main thoroughfares being the Mekong, Nam Ou, Nam Khan, Nam Tha, Nam Ngum and Se Kong rivers. The biggest and most frequently travelled route is the Mekong and transport is available between Luang Prabang and Savannakhet. Smaller rivers are home to a range of boats from the héua hang nyáo (longtail boats) to a héua phái (rowboat) for very short distances. Along the upper Mekong River between Huay Xai and Vientiane you can also board Thai-built héua wái (speedboats) that will get you to your destination in a fraction of the time.
With the introduction of more roads, public buses and sǎwngthǎew (converted pickup trucks) are increasingly becoming a more popular and more convenient means of travel. Busier routes such Rte 13 and international routes are dominated by private operators offering a more sophisticated kind of travel on air-conditioned ‘VIP buses’. In more off-the-beaten-track places you may also find the lot doi saan (wooden bus) is the way to go, these sturdy trucks can handle roads that are impassable for most other vehicles!
Driving independently in Laos is possible, though not easy! The country is becoming more of a motorcycle destination and you’ll find Chinese- and Japanese-made 100 and 110cc step-through motorbikes available for hire in most large centres. Car hire is also possible in the cities though chartered cars are often a better option as drivers know how to best navigate the tricky roads!
For gadding about the cities and towns, three wheeled taxis will give you a taste of life in Asia though you’ll need to work on your language skills they’re known as sakai-làep, tuk-tuk, thaek-sii, jumbo and a good few more but the locals will know what you’re after!
Highlights:
Luang Prabang
A wonderful mixture of gleaming temples, colonial French buildings and a range of ethnic groups living together in harmony, Luang Prabang is deservedly Laos’s biggest attraction. A visual and sensory experience, travellers will be bowled over by the spices, colours and peaceful beauty of the city, preserved from the ravages of the modern world by its UNESCO Heritage status, which also means that buses and trucks stay well away allowing you to take in the sights at more of a leisurely pace.
A collection of must-sees include Wat Xieng Thong, the oldest monastery in the city, the golden Vipassana temple, Pak Ou Caves, the nearby multi-stage waterfall of Kuang Si Falls and Phou Si, the main hill of the city which affords amazing views of the city.
Vientiane
The quaint capital of Laos is still somewhat underdeveloped making it a voyage of discovery and the perfect destination for backpackers looking for a more authentic experience in South East Asia. Wander through markets and sample the famed local cuisine; a mixture of French and Asian cooking, which you can even try your hand at mastering.
There are also an array of cultural wonders for history buffs to take in; the Lao National Museum for some local heritage, Wat Si Saket, the oldest standing temple in Vientiane, Pha That Luang, a three-layered gilded stupa, which is both an ancient symbol and the national symbol and Buddha Park, a collection of concrete sculptures of Buddhist and Hindu deities built in the 50s.
Useful links
www.lonelyplanet.com
Lonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
http://www.cheapflights.co.uk/flight-guide-to-Laos/
A handy price comparison site to find cheap flights to Laos.
http://www.laoairlines.com/flights
Domestic airline Lao airlines offers flights to nearby locations including Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia.
http://www.tourismlaos.org/web/index.php
Tourist information for Laos and useful travel information.
