Hungary
A little bit of history…
From the 3rd century AD when the Celts inhabited the land, Hungary was home to a myriad of tribes, groups and dynasties throughout its early history including the Romans, Huns and Goths. The Magyars, a nomadic tribe, occupied the country from the 9th century and laid the foundations for the state by appointing Hungary’s first king, King Stephen, and converting the country to Christianity. During medieval times, the country was a sprawling land mass that included Transylvania, Slovakia and Croatia. Under threat from invaders, it succeeded in warding off assaults from the Mongol armies and Ottoman Empire, but it fell to Turkish rule from the early 16th century until the late 17th century. Subsequently, the country was under Habsburg rule, which was the ruling house of Austria, until after WWI when Hungary achieved independence. But the country was further beset by disruption to its boundaries when the 1920 Trianon Treaty resulted in Hungary losing two thirds of its territory and millions of Hungarians were displaced into neighbouring countries.
In the aftermath of WW II, Hungary fell to communist rule. Staunch opposition against communist control reached its apex in 1956 when a student demonstration culminated in what was to be known as the Hungarian Revolution. A wave of revolt spread throughout the country but was ultimately suppressed by Soviet forces. The country’s shift toward a democratic society and free market economy was realised in 1989, together with its Eastern bloc neighbours, when it shed its communist tag. In recent times, it has achieved economic growth and stability.
Sights & Sounds
While the spotlight for all things Hungarian has long shone big and bright on Budapest (see highlight section), the country does not begin and end with its capital. Within the country’s borders lie baroque style towns, castles, palaces and monuments of bygone eras together with natural wonders to pump the blood of adventure-seekers. In the south of the country, the city of Pécs bears some of the best Turkish monuments, leftover from the years of Turkish rule circa the 1500s, as well as a thriving student population and a UNESCO recognized world heritage site in the shape of its 4th century Christian necropolis. Selected as the European Capital of Culture for 2010, the city also boasts artistic delights housed in an array of museums including Vasarely Museum, which houses works from the Pécs-born painter Victor Vasarely.
For good wine, castle-exploring and some of the best baroque architecture in the country, the city of Eger, in the north of the country, is a prime destination. Underneath its medieval castle are hidden cellars that can be explored on a guided tour. For a look at traditional village life, a preserved Hungarian settlement can be found at Hollókő, 100km from Budapest. Named a UNESCO World Heritage site, the village has faithfully preserved its 17th and 18th century buildings and also includes folk museums, a church and a castle. However, it remains a living, breathing community of Palóc people who have their own distinct dialect, along with folk costumes which are worn with pride during seasonal celebrations like Easter.
Just as the Danube is the heart and lungs of Budapest, water and its healing properties is prolific throughout the country in the shape of Roman and Turkish baths, spas and volcanic heated pools. Budapest alone has over 100 thermal springs and one of the most popular baths with locals and visitors alike is the Széchenyi Baths; it’s not uncommon to see bathers playing chess on floating boards within the baths’ opulent decor. For surroundings as nature intended, the country also boasts cave baths such as the one at Miskolc-Tapolca where visitors swim and relax in its warm waters. Warm mineral waters can also be found at Gyógytó, Europe’s largest thermal lake, situated in the town of Héviz. The lake is topped with water lilies year round and makes for a picturesque sight and a satisfying swim.
For more active water pursuits, Lake Balaton provides the ideal platform; pedalos, canoes and yachts are regular fixtures on the lake during high season. As the largest lake in central Europe, it also acts as worthy beach substitute for landlocked Hungary with its sandy beaches and popular resorts like Siófok, one of the busiest resorts with a raft of bars, restaurants and buzzing nightlife. There’s an abundance of attractions around the lake with the south side giving way to commercialized resorts while the north is home to more historic sites, vineyards and deeper waters. Keszthely, north of the lake, is a good town to visit year round as it’s not solely geared toward high summer tourism. One of its main sites is the Festetics Palace that dates from the 18th century and is one of the finest palaces in the country. The town is also home to Roman ruins and a 14th century Gothic church. The Tihany Peninsula, meanwhile, is a major beauty spot with enticing architecture, namely its twin towered Benedictine Abbey, which dates back to1055.
Best time to go…
With mild temperatures and fewer tourists, spring and autumn are the best times to visit Hungary, though May can be one of the wettest months. Dark days and dipping temperatures dominate the winter season with January and February the coldest months. Summer is hot and humid with temperatures surpassing 80˚F, particularly in July and August which are awash with tourists, particularly in Budapest and in the resorts around Lake Balaton.
Currency and living costs…
The forint is Hungary’s currency. The current exchange rate is: $1 to 205.814 Ft. Check www.xe.com or equivalent for the most up to date exchange rate.
The average costs of life’s little essentials are as follows:
- Meals – A meal in fast food joint is around 300 Ft, while more upmarket surroundings such as Hungarian restaurants range from around 1,230 Ft for a main meal.
- Beer – a beer ranges from 300 Ft to 500 Ft in a bar.
- Coffee – a cup of coffee can be bought for around 90 Ft
- Taxi ride – Taxis generally charge a basic fee of 350 Ft and then around 270 Ft per Km; prices are higher during the evening.
- Accommodation – A 2* hotel room, depending on season and availability can be priced in the region of 7,879.72 Ft to 21,012.58 Ft.
- Internet café – Internet access ranges from 200 Ft to 700 Ft per hour.
Getting around…
There are no scheduled domestic flights within Hungary at present, except for the newly introduced flight service from Budapest to Debrecen operated by Malév and OLT. This is not a big hindrance to getting around the country since its comprehensive buses and train services ensure that major destinations are usually no more than 3 to 4 hours traveling time from Budapest.
Some out of the way places can only be reached by bus and the extensive services on offer make bus travel a worthwhile option. There are several private coach companies to choose from, with Volán one of the most prominent. Fares and journey times by bus don’t differ dramatically from those of trains. The national train company, Magyar Államvastuak (MÁV), operates a reliable service. Though services are generally well priced, tickets for Intercity trains are the most expensive since it’s the fastest service available. It’s advisable to book in advance as they tend to experience a mad rush during the weekends. Also, if a ticket is bought on the train rather than at the station, a surcharge may be added. Motorbike and car rentals are readily available, particularly in Budapest, where rental companies like Avis and Budget have branches.
With Budapest the transport hub and the place where most people begin and end their Hungarian adventures, it’s worth noting its choice of local transport options that include the metro (underground rail system), trams, buses, trolley buses and trains. The metro is safe and clean, albeit limited compared to the railway undergrounds of London and New York but it does serve the major tourist sites. All forms of transport require pre-purchased tickets and for convenience it’s best to invest in a day or multi-day travel pass. To avoid unscrupulous taxi drivers, look out for a yellow number plate, rates on display and make sure the meter is switched on.
Highlight: Budapest
A popular European weekend getaway on par with Paris and Prague, Budapest is a cosmopolitan capital with winning sights and a culture all its own. An amalgamation of the historic Buda and the commercial centre that is Pest, the river Danube elegantly slices through the city. Buda is situated on the west bank and is peppered with cobbled streets, medieval architecture and rolling hills. On the opposite side, Pest is characterized by its flat terrain, fashionable shopping and leafy boulevards.
Much of the city’s medieval past and must-see historical sights can be found on Castle Hill in Buda. One of the most popular attractions on Castle Hill is the Royal Palace, which has withstood centuries of attacks and been rebuilt many times; today it houses several museums including the National Gallery’s vast works of Hungarian Art and the Budapest History Museum. Castle Hill also features the neo-Gothic style of Matthias Church and fine views of Pest and the Danube from the white tower that is known as the Fisherman’s Bastion. A good panoramic view of the city and the river can also be found from the Citadella, a former fortress on Gellért Hill.
One of the city’s most famous landmarks, the Parliament Building, is situated in Pest in all its neo-gothic finery. The east bank is also home to Budapest’s main church, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the biggest synagogue in Europe and the Jewish Museum. The main sights on this side of the city can be experienced along the UNESCO listed Andrássy út boulevard which stretches from downtown to the City Park and takes in such gems as the neo-renaissance style State Opera House. City Park itself is worthy of a few hours of exploration. Within the park’s confines reside the late 19th century Vajadahunyad castle, a zoo, botanical gardens and the monumental Heroes Square that’s lined with art museums.
As if to stress the point that there’s more to Budapest than attractive surface detail, underneath its historical streets and cosmopolitan air are hundreds of caves waiting to be discovered. A handful of the most impressive can be accessed on guided tours, including the Pálvölgy Cave and Szemlő Hill Cave in the Buda Hills. Another sight teaming with a sense of other worldliness is what is known as The Labyrinth; a system of caves, tunnels and cellars underneath Buda’s Castle Hill that once acted as an air raid shelter during WW II. Today, it is a popular visitor attraction that’s designed to chart the history of human society but the museum orientated nature of the project doesn’t make it any less atmospheric or unique.
Other than the city’s many thermal bath houses (see Sights & Sounds), a popular retreat amongst locals and visitors alike is Margit Sziget or Margaret Island, a green grass haven located in the middle of the Danube between the Margaret Bridge and Árpád Bridge. The Island’s English and Japanese gardens, pretty green spaces and hot springs make for tranquil surroundings. As well as Spa hotels, the Island also plays host to one of the largest outdoor swimming complexes in the city, Palatinus Strand, open during the summer, complete with a wave machine and water chutes. An outdoor theatre shows plays, concerts and operas during the summer months. Since most of the island is sealed off to traffic, a good way to get around is by hiring a bike on the southern entrance to the Island.
Socializing is big business in Budapest. From traditional coffeehouses to contemporary dance clubs, there’s no shortage of places to go when the sun goes down. Although Budapest is a popular party destination for hen and stag dos, the city does delve deeper than rowdy bars and pick-up joints. But like all good things, decent night haunts can be hard to find with many new clubs and bars opening up but then closing after the mad summer season. Some of the more popular nightspots include Bahnhof, which features resident Djs and a packed dance floor at weekends, and Szoda, a hip bar frequented by an artsy crowd. For something a little different, the A38 is a moored old Ukrainian stone-carrier ship that’s a popular party venue during the summer. Celebrations hit fever pitch in the city, however, during St Stephen’s Day, which is held on August 20 and the cityscape is lit up by a fireworks spectacular.
Useful links
www.lonelyplanet.com
Lonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
www.mav.hu
The country’s train operator, Magyar Államvastuak (MÁV).
www.budataxi.hu
Buda Ltd operates two taxi companies in Budapest: Budataxi and Tele-5-Taxi and offers online ordering of its services.
