Honduras
A little bit of history…
Long before the Spanish Conquest of the Americas, the Mayan settled in Honduras in the fifth century AD and established the city of Copán. Due to the decline of the Mayan civilisation, it fell to ruin in the 9th century AD. A myriad of indigenous people followed before the colonists executed their dominance in the 16th century. The Spanish were met with stiff Indian resistance as they made their settlement in the highlands. The British, meanwhile, focused their attentions on the Bay Islands and the Caribbean coast which served as a base for British pirates from the 16th to the 18th centuries. At the end of the 19th century, the country’s banana industry boomed and opened up export links with the US and UK. The banana industry was monopolised by US companies and for a time the country’s economic and political interests were heavily shaped by these company interests.
The country endured an unstable political and economic climate for much of the 19th and 20th centuries, aided by liberals and conservatives competing for power, military coups and tensions with its neighbour El Salvador. As the second largest country in Central America, it remains one of the least developed but optimism is on the horizon. In the past decade its economy has diversified to include tourism. And although the effects of Hurricane Mitch in 1998 and its heavy foreign debt have hindered development, it remains a democracy with a government that is looking towards the future with reform and a sense of openness in mind.
Best time to go…
Umbrella weather is from May to October but it can vary in different parts of the country. The Caribbean coast is wet year round with September and sometimes November to February seeing the heaviest rainfall. Inland it is typically dry from November to April. April and May can feel like an oven but the central highlands usually feel pleasant compared to the humidity of the lowland areas. The hurricane season, meanwhile, is from June to November. The busiest time to visit is around February to April.
Sights and sounds
The Mayan ruins at Copán are an archaeologist’s dream. But you don’t have to be a scholar to appreciate their stature and ability to keep you clicking away at your camera. It’s a vast site with over 4,000 structures including temples, intricate carvings, plazas and sculptures. In-between constructing advanced architecture and advancing its civilisation, the Maya also found time to have some fun and the site boasts the second largest ball court in Central America. The Hieroglyphic Stairway and Acropolis are other key structures that evoke what the Mayan world actually looked like way back when. The town of Copán Ruinas, around 1km from the ruins, has resisted being overshadowed by the mighty ruins and is itself a popular destination. Lined with cobblestone streets and white buildings with red-tiled roofs, it features shops, restaurants and a market; a good way to see the town is on horseback. For more Mayan wonders, the town’s Copán Museum boasts a comprehensive range of artefacts found at the site.
For a taste of colonial history, the nation’s capital Tegucigalpa, also known as Tegus (pronounced Tehgoos), has a good offering with its museums, churches and colonial architecture housed within its urban sprawl. Museo Nacional Villaroy is housed in an old presidential house and includes exhibits on past presidents, colonial and natural history, along with Pre-Columbian archaeological finds. Iglesia de San Francisco is the city’s first church and dates back to the late 1500s. The best views of the city can be seen from El Picachio, a national park that also includes a statue of Christ overlooking the city.
Honduras is also home to a diverse and abundant range of animal and plant species including over 700 bird species and 110 mammal species, from pumas to howler monkeys. Although not as developed as Costa Rica, Honduras’s ecotourism is of great interest for a country which boasts the largest area of virgin tropical rainforest in the North American Hemisphere in the region known as The Mosquito coast. La Moskitia, which also runs into Nicaraguan territory, is a unique area that’s largely uninhabited but teeming with wildlife. Within the region lies the Río Plátano Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is the largest park in the country with green iguana, sea turtles and deer among its eclectic residents. The town of Palacios is the best base from which to explore the reserve as it offers food, shelter and flight services. For those looking for nature closer to city civilisation, a hike through mountainous Le Tigre National Park should quench the thirst. Close to Tegucigalpa and a good day trip destination, its cloud forest is home to lush vegetation and the likes of quetzal, monkeys and pumas.
For relaxation, Caribbean beach town Tela is a nice remedy from other tourist populated beaches. Much of it remains unspoiled and it moves a long at a steady pace with locals opting for bicycles to get from A to B.
Highlights: La Ceiba
The third largest city in Honduras, La Ceiba, is by no means third rate and its main pull lies in its party reputation and proximity to some of the best nature hotspots in the country. It is the largest of the country’s Caribbean port towns and is a buzz of activity with bars, restaurants and shops to whet the consumer appetite. One of the highlights in its social calendar, is Carnaval, which celebrates the patron saint San Isidro. It’s held during the third week of May and lasts for 2 weeks, with the third Saturday in May the biggest celebration day. During this time, the city’s population swells to an additional 200,000 people from around the world. It’s a full-on party with live music, food, drink and frivolity.
But the city is much more than a guilty pleasure, it is also has an array of attractions for eco enthusiasts. On the city’s doorstep is Parque Nacional Pico Bonito, one of the country’s best known national parks, and features forests, rivers, waterfalls and a selection of wildlife including armadillos, wild pigs and doves. Its mountain peak is a lure for the super adventurous which, at over 2000m, is a challenging climb and takes several days to climb up and get down. Also within reach of the city is the Cuero y Salado Wildlife Refuge whose mangrove forests and coastal lagoons are home to several species including monkeys and manatees.
La Ceiba is also the launch pad for speedy island getaways with its regular ferry and flight services to the Bay Islands. The Bay Islands (Roatán, Guanaja and Utila) are prime destinations for snorkelling and scuba diving. Their extensive coral reefs are a main attraction and Utila is thought to be one of the cheapest places in the world to go scuba diving. La Ceibe ‘s Golosón International Airport also serves Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula, Choluteca, Trujillo, as well as La Moskitia.
Getting around
Bus is the best mode of transport in Honduras to get to where you want to go on a tight budget. Services are plentiful and often run from very early in the morning to late in the afternoon. The cheapest fares are to be had on what is known as chicken buses, these are poorly maintained and crowded. For comfort over price, coach companies like Hedman Alas travel to major destinations in air conditioned style with mod cons like TVs.
Car rentals are available in cities but prices can be high, while taxis are good for short journeys in and around towns and cities. A flat rate is sometimes in operation but always agree on the fare before you set off as taxis aren’t metered.
Ferries depart from La Ceiba and Puerto Cortés to the Bay Islands several times a week. The Islands can also be reached by air with Isleña Airlines and Sosa Airlines running services to Utila, the cheapest Bay Island. While La Moskitia is serviced by Sosa Airlines, Isleña and Rollins Air, departing from La Ceiba.
Useful Links
www.lonelyplanet.com
Lonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
www.flyislena.com
Domestic airline Isleña Airlines.
www.hedmanalas.com
Coach company Hedman Alas serves destinations in Honduras and Guatemala.
www.laceibaonline.net/aerososa/sosaingl.htm
Domestic airline Sosa Airlines.
www.ticabus.com
Tica Bus serves routes throughout Central America including Honduras, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama.
