Dominican Republic
A little bit of history…
The Dominican Republic’s resilience has been tried and tested ever since Christopher Columbus graced its shores in 1492. Long before Columbus’s arrival and before Europeans inflicted their influence, the Taíno, a spiritual people who Columbus termed ‘Indians’, inhabited the island of Hispaniola, which the Dominican Republic shares with Haiti. True to their roots, Dominicans still refer to their country today by its Taíno name Quisqueya, which translates as ‘mother of the earth’. Indeed, the country has nurtured change despite its unsettled political past. It’s from here the Spanish conquest of the Americas gathered pace and its capital Santo Domingo was the first city established by Europeans in the new world. Following the arrival of the Spanish and their subsequent introduction of African Slaves in the early 1500s, the French arrived in the 1600s and occupied what later became Haiti in 1804. After being occupied by Haiti for several years, fighting for independence and then willingly returning to Spanish rule for a brief period, the Dominican Republic established independence in 1865. Throughout the 20th century, however, the country had to contend with a corrupt dictator, a military coup and US intervention. With tightened election procedures in place and lessons learned from an undemocratic past, the current political situation is stable and the country looks set for a brighter future.
Sights and sounds…
With its picture postcard white-sand beaches, it’s not surprising it has become a tourist haven and mecca for all-inclusive holiday makers. Resorts and luxury hotels began creeping along its coastline in the 1980s and have been growing since. They are particularly predominant in the Puerto Plata in the North, Punta Cana and Bavaro on the east coast and in Bayahibe in the south. But the Dominican Republic has a multitude of natural wonders, not to mention 10 national parks, diverse landscapes and adrenaline pumping activities for the taking. In a country that is home to the tallest mountains in the Caribbean, with Pico Duarte being the tallest at over 3000m, hikers and trekkers flock to Cordillera Central, which runs northwest-southeast from Haiti to the towns of Baní and San Cristóbal. The area is home to two national parks, Armano Bermúdez and José del Carmen Ramírez, popular with hikers and brimming with lush vegetation and rare wildlife. The town of Jarabacoa, famed for its waterfalls, also resides within the Cordillera Central. One of the best windsurfing destinations in the world can be found in Cabarete, a beach village on the northwest coast that attracts a young crowd and has plenty of nightlife on offer.
The Dominican Republic is also home to some of the world’s most under threat and beautiful creatures. Located on the northeast coast, Bahía de Samaná is one of the best places in the world to catch sight of humpback whales; the whale watching season runs from January 15 to March 15. Endangered manatees, large sea mammals that are also known as sea cows, can also be found in this area. For land animals of a more sinister variety, iguanas and crocodiles can be seen lurking in Parque Nacional Isla Cabritos. This national park is one of three islands contained in Lago Enriquillo, the only saltwater lake in the world where you’ll find crocs. The park is also home to flocks of flamingos.
People and culture…
The richness of the country’s landscape and wildlife is matched by the vibrancy of its culture. The laidback calm of sunny beaches mixed in with the bustling beat of merengue music is illustrative of the way of life in the Dominican Republic. A friendly and easy going attitude pervades the island and it’s not unknown for Dominicans to teach foreigners a few nifty merengue moves in a nightclub to stop them looking like dad dancing at a disco. Nor is it alien for Dominicans to celebrate; Santo Domingo celebrates two carnivals each year and the country’s event calendar also includes two major merengue festivals, a three day Latin music festival and a festival that promotes happiness, to name a few of the highlights.
Best time to go…
Despite its year-round hot summer temperatures, the Dominican Republic’s tropical climate and location makes it prone to hurricanes and torrential rain. Hurricane season runs from June to November, while the rainy season on the north coast runs from October to April and May to November on the south coast. The busiest time of year is between December and April when North Americans take their vacations to tropical climes. The European tourist stampede is generally June to September.
Getting around…
A sense of humour, negotiation skills and a cautious mind are useful attributes when travelling around the Dominican Republic. The best, and cheapest, way to see the country is by road. For short journeys, taxis and motoconchos (motorcycle taxis) are readily available in most towns and cities but it’s essential to agree a fare before you set foot in the taxi as metres are practically non-existent. Motoconchos are accident-prone and are not the safest method to get from A to B, if only for the danger of being burnt on the leg from the exhaust pipe. Another popular method of travel within cities and towns are públicos, or public cars, which are usually mini vans or sedan style cars that follow a daily route. It’s a case of flagging it down and if there is space you’ll be picked up, likewise for buses. It’s easy to mark out a público as they’re likely to be crammed full of people and will be the most exhausted looking vehicles on the road. Car rental, meanwhile, can be expensive and it’s essential to have insurance. Half of the Dominican Republic’s highways are paved, the rest are unpaved, potholes can be a problem and Dominicans are not the most rule abiding motorists.
Gua-guas (pronounced gwah-gwah) are crowded mini-buses that are cheap and ideal if you don’t have an issue with preserving your personal space. They cruise around city roads and along the country’s highways and offer a slice of Dominican life that can’t be found in a guidebook or organised tour. For longer bus journeys, companies such as Metro Bus and Caribe Tours offer an affordable and comfortable service.
Highlight: Santo Domingo
‘If you’ve got it, flaunt it’, could be the motto of Santo Domingo. Declared a world heritage site by UNESCO and coated in history, its claims to fame include the first cathedral, first monastery, first hospital, first university and first court of law in the Western Hemisphere. It’s in the city’s historic heart, Zona Colonial, where its past is proudly on view in the shape of cobblestone streets, sixteenth century architecture and medieval fortresses. Offering further insight into the country’s past and conveniently located in one area, four national museums including the Natural History Museum of Geography and History and the national theatre are based in a large park area close to the centre of the city called Plaza de la Cultura. Further displays of history include the Faro a Colón (Columbus Lighthouse); a structure in the shape of a cross built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the explorer landing in the Americas that’s said to contain his remains.
On the lighter side of life, the city’s main parks, namely parque mirador del sur in the south west and parquet mirador del este in the east of the city, are frequented by city types and joggers and are good spots for people watching. Less apparent are the parks’ caves that range from small, cosy spaces to caves so big you park a Boeing 747 in; one of the city’s best-known nightclubs, Guacara Taina, is in fact a converted cave based at parque mirador del sur.
With liberal rum measures and high energy latin beats, nightlife in the city requires that you party hard. Clubs don’t get into full swing until 11pm and most clubs close at around 4am which is preparation enough for when carnival fever hits. The first carnival of the year, which celebrates independence from neighbouring Haiti, takes place the week of 27 February. While the second round of celebrations coincides with the anniversary of the country’s declaration of war against Spain and typically runs mid August. The main focal point during carnival is El Malecon, the main road next to the Caribbean sea that is lined with hotels, restaurants and all that makes up the happy life of city dweller and tourist alike. The city also plays host to an annual merengue festival during the end of July and early August, along with the three day Latin music festival that attracts top latin musicians and artists during the month of June.
A quick escape from the rush of city life, beach community Boca Chico is around a 30 minute drive from Santo Domingo and is a favourite weekend getaway with Dominicans. Lazy sunbathing and scuba diving are the main activities and the bars and restaurants quickly fill up when the sun goes down.
Useful links
www.lonelyplanet.com
Lonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
www.fco.gov.uk
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
