Bolivia
A little bit of history…
A swathe of ethnic groups laid claim to what is now known as Bolivia, including the Aymara civilisation, before the Inca’s fully established their rule in the 16th century. The Incas’ reign was short lived after the Spanish came and conquered in the1530s. Bolivia, known at the time as Upper Peru or Charcas, bore the Spanish Empire great wealth through its silver mines, and silver-rich Potosí became the largest city in the Americas for a time. Unrest towards the Spanish regime grew and the country finally gained independence in 1809 but it wasn’t until 1825 that it became a fully fledged republic; it was named Bolivia after liberator General Simón Bolívar. The country’s name wasn’t the only change post-independence. In the War of the Pacific (1879-1884), it lost it’s coastline to Chile, which left it landlocked without a trading port. During the 20th century, Peru, Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay also encroached onto Bolivia’s borders leaving it with a decreased land mass.
Within the country’s borders unrest continued to brew throughout the 20th century, which was underlined by a series of military coups, counter-coups and corrupt governments. In 1980 General Luis García Meza Tejada carried out a violent coup but was soon forced out and over 14 months 3 other military governments attempted to deal with Bolivia’s growing social and economic problems. In the 1990s, president Sánchez de Lozada engineered a series of economic and social reforms, one move was to open up state-owned companies to overseas investment but many were suspicious of this. In 1995, there were violent labour protests and strikes over new economic policies resulting in a state of siege that lasted 90 days. As one of the poorest and least developed countries in Latin America, Bolivia faces many challenges. Bolivia’s current government has pledged to invest in the country’s future and work towards depenalising coca, the base ingredient for cocaine, so that it can be used for industrialised products such as coca tea for the home market and for exports.
Best time to go...
Bolivia’s summer months, from November to April, aren’t all ice creams and sunglasses. Rainfall is most likely during this time especially in January and February. The winter months, from May to October, are the driest; the roads aren’t forced out of action by the elements and mountain visibility is also good during this time. Late July to early September is a time for major fiestas, as well as hordes of visitors and tourists. The country has a temperate climate where days are warm but nights are cold and sometimes freezing in winter.
Getting around…
There are buses in Bolivia, and then there is bus camas. These are the luxury variety with reclining seats that resemble beds. They cost at least double that of regular buses but are best for long, overnight trips. Pay less for bus travel and you forfeit comfort and space. While they may be tolerable for short journeys, the cheapest buses often run to full plus 10 capacity and most don’t have toilet facilities. The country’s roads make for long arduous journeys and a 12 hour bus trip may only have 2 rest stops at the most, depending on the driver’s mood. Like anywhere, it’s essential to be mindful of your belongings and keep them with you rather than on overhead racks. Taxis can also get you to where you want to go in towns and cities. Since it’s been known for petty criminals to promote themselves as taxi drivers to unsuspecting travellers and tourists, it’s important to seek out bona fide taxis, known as radio taxis, which have a telephone number prominently displayed on the vehicle’s roof.
Most of the country’s roads are unpaved and restrictions can be common during the wet season, which makes flying an attractive option in a country that’s known for dangerous roads that skim mountains sides. Bolivia’s national airlines Lloyd Aereo Boliviano (LAB) and Aero Sur offer reasonable fares but delays and cancellations are not uncommon.
If you have the time and money to travel at your own pace and have an adventurous disposition, car rental is a good option. Rough roads and high terrain mean that 4x4’s are the best vehicle to tackle the country’s temperamental climate and are available to rent in major cities, like La Paz which as a Hertz rental agency.
Sights & Sounds...
Landlocked Bolivia could easily be overshadowed by its bigger neighbours that include Brazil and Argentina, but what it lacks in size and snazzy tourism campaigns it makes up for in its mind-boggling diverse landscape that stretches from the snowy peaks of the Andes to the sweltering Amazon jungle. In an age of rabid globalisation, it has managed to cling onto its roots and proclaims one of the highest concentrations of indigenous cultures in South America. As one of the most underdeveloped countries on the continent, it has been able to preserve its natural showstoppers and possesses numerous national parks and protected areas that money can’t buy.
One of the best jumping off points to get a slice of traditional life and an appreciation of the country’s past is to travel to Lake Titicaca. This huge expanse of water lies northwest of La Paz (see highlight section) and is the second largest of its kind in South America. Dotted with several islands, one of the most visited is Isla del Sol, revered by the Inca’s as the birthplace of their civilisation. Its spectacular scenery, offset by the sapphire lake waters, is interspersed with ancient ruins and is home to traditional Aymara villages. The absence of cars and roads also add to its tranquil ambience. The town of Copacabana, not to be confused with its Brazilian namesake, is the main base for exploring Lake Titicaca. It may appear sleepy on the surface but it is lauded for its frenetic fiestas. For the festival of festivals, the annual Oruro Carnval is worth the three hour bus trip from La Paz. It takes place a week before Lent and the city of Oruro sees its population swell as visitors arrive for the week-long colourful processions, partake in friendly water-fights and enjoy the odd alcoholic beverage or six.
There’s more eye-popping awe to be had at El Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt desert in the world. Located in the south west of the country, the expansive white salt flats pitched against the deep blue sky, make for an otherworldly image. It’s also a favourite haunt for flamingos. Parque Nacional Madidi, which covers part of the Andes to the western Amazon basin, is another of the country’s natural gems. It boasts one of the world’s most diverse bio-wonderlands with over 1,000 species of birds alone. The cherry on top for a visit to Bolivia is a trip to the Amazon basin itself. The town of Rurrenabaque is the main starting point for jungle treks, from which there’s a range of tour groups that offer activities like motorized canoe trips, camping and a chance to view all manner of wildlife including alligators and monkeys.
The country is also dense with historical significance and one of its most prized sites is Tiwanaku (also known as Tiahuanaco) which is situated on the south eastern shore of Lake Titicaca. Recognised by UNESCO, this famed archaeological retreat houses the remnants of a pre-Columbian civilisation that flourished between 500 AD and 900 AD. Ruins of ancient palaces and temples, together with excavations housed in the town’s museums, help piece together the bygone era. Trouncing ahead several hundred years, Bolivia’s colonial past is well-preserved in Potosi, a noted UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was once a booming silver-rich city and the most affluent in Latin America. Amid its colonial era architecture, which includes churches and cathedrals dating back to the 16th and18th centuries, lies Cerro Rico (Rich Hill) where the silver mines continue to churn out precious minerals, albeit to a far lesser extent than during its Spanish colonial heyday. Tours of the mines are available, though not ideal for the claustrophobic; it’s polite practice to bring the miners a gift of coco leaves or cigarettes and once you see the conditions they have to work under, you’d be glad you did. The city of Sucre (the legal capital and seat of Judiciary) also has colonial heritage at its heart and was the location for the signing of Bolivia’s declaration of independence. Within its environs are traditional weaving villages, and for added intrigue, close by is the site where dinosaur footprints and prehistoric fossils were discovered.
Hikers will be in their element in Bolivia what with the range of peaks and lofty heights; the scenery is enough of a pull to make novices want to have a go at traipsing the mountainous trails. Outside the city
of Tupiza, in the south of the country, are popular hiking trails in the form of mammoth red rock canyons and cacti that look like the setting for a wild west movie; incidentally, Tupiza was where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid ran amok and met their end. The picturesque town of Sorata is also a popular starting point for hiking the Andean heights, especially for scaling Illampu (over 20,800ft).
Highlight: La Paz...
Skyscrapers, check. A mix of the old and the new, check. Museums and shopping galore, check. La Paz may have the ubiquitous markings of a capital city but it’s far from a cliché and its uniqueness is illustrative of the country’s dynamic allure. La Paz lives and breathes in a bowl-shaped canyon, 5km wide and 4km above sea level, making it the highest capital city in the world; it’s that high that altitude sickness is a common ailment and many swear by coca tea as a remedy. Andean peaks guard the city’s edge, while what look like clusters of boxes, but on closer inspection are hillside villages, lie on knee-buckling gradients a whisper away from the city’s core of narrow cobbled streets, bustling traffic and bargain markets.
The city’s generous geographical surrounds aren’t the only visual attraction. The mix of people is also striking, from suited and booted office types to women in traditional colourful garments and bowler hats. A good place for taking in the scene and people watch is at the plaza of the centuries-old church Iglesia de San Francisco. While Plaza Murillo is at the heart of the city and is also a lively hangout area in lavish surrounds, with the Presidential Palace, 19th century cathedral, Congress building and several museums within view.
It’s not all lazy gazing; there are plenty of vigorous cultural pursuits to be had. A visit to the city should not be experienced without a sojourn to one of the many folk music venues, known as Peñas; Marka Tambo is just one of the many venues for traditional music and dancing. For more a contemporary vibe, there’s a wide choice of clubs and bars available that hot up during the weekend.
La Paz is also something of a bargain hunter’s paradise. It has a swathe of markets that sell all kinds of goodies and are particularly good for Andean handicrafts. One of the best known, and unique, markets is the Witches Market (Mercado de Brujas) where an assortment of potions and charms, as well as herbs and remedies used in Aymara rituals, can be found. Such delights include dried frogs and llama foetuses which are believed to improve fortunes and give good luck.
While La Paz has enough going on to keep even the most restless souls amused for more than a couple of days, there’s a bundle of activities on its door step that shouldn’t be missed. With the Cordillera Real (the Andean peaks that run north of the city) in view, La Paz is a major starting point for mountainous treks. Among the most popular treks are the Inca trails, routes that were used by the Incas, which traverse the Cordillera Real to the Yungas, the mountainous subtropical region. The treks take around 3 to 4 days. For a look at dramatic rock formations without investing too much energy, a trip to Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon), is a worthwhile compromise. Buses make the 10km trip from La Paz on a regular basis.
True to its dramatic topography, La Paz has the dubious honour of boasting the most dangerous road in the world. Hundreds die each year making the 70km trip from La Paz to Coroico. A bike or car ride along this cliff’s edge road is obviously not advisable. On a more joyous note, Bolivia’s does cater for adrenaline junkies in less death defying ways. Close to La Paz resides the world’s highest ski resort at Mount Chacaltaya, which is over 5, 400m (18,000ft); don’t expect the most advanced facilities though the views do take some beating. The best time to ski is from April to June.
Useful Links
www.lonelyplanet.comLonely Planet are leaders in the travel guide sector and their website is a great source of travel information.
The Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s website provides up-to-date political news, travel advice and information on visas.
www.aerosur.com
Domestic airline Aerosur.
http://lloydaerobolivianoairlines.com/
Domestic airline Lloyd Aero Boliviano.
