Our Woman in Trinidad and Tobago
On my first morning in Trinidad we set off on the long drive from Arima to Grande Riviere to see the first of our projects in Trinidad & Tobago. The further we drove, the more beautiful the scenery became and the worse the roads got! We passed through rainforests full of cocoa trees, all kinds of fruit trees (mango, papaya… you name it, we saw it), palm trees and bamboo - it was a pretty amazing journey really.
The further we drove, the more rural life became, until we were passing through tiny villages of ramshackle houses, with farmers selling their wares along the roadside. There was plenty of street food on offer and we stopped for my first taste of paymee – sweetened cornmeal mixed with milk, spices and vanilla all steamed in a banana leaf. We passed by rivers where people were just starting to gather for a lime (lime is the Trinidadian word for a social gathering and "liming" is an important part of the Trinidadian culture), cooking their meals or laying out their picnics on the banks.
Even nearer to our destination I was treated to spectacular views of forested valleys and the rocky shores of the Atlantic Ocean, before finally reaching Grande Riviere.
Grande Riviere is a small village consisting of 360 people and a beach with perfect conditions for the Leatherback Sea Turtle to come ashore to breed. Unfortunately I visited out of season so I didn't get to see any turtle action (clearly should have planned my trip better) but I was told that it can be a veritable turtle traffic jam on the beach between mid-May and the end of July - yet these turtles could be extinct within just 10 years if work isn’t done now to protect them. Not only are there few beaches with the right conditions for turtles to lay their eggs but turtle meat and eggs are a very sought-after commodity and poaching is a major problem.
The villagers have started patrolling the beaches during these months to ensure that the turtles can lay their eggs in peace. It’s a tough time for the local volunteers who have to balance day jobs and family needs with night patrols that can last up to 6 hours if there aren’t enough volunteers. With additional volunteers the risk of poachers getting to the turtles could be further reduced and some of the pressure could be taken off the villagers. Shifts could be shortened and local volunteers might actually find themselves with an evening off for once!
One of the best things about Trinidad is most certainly the food. We had a fantastic lunch of chicken, rice and lentils at the guest, while the local men sat drinking rum and loudly debating politics (a typical activity for a Saturday!). Then the next day we stopped at a street-corner doubles van for a taste of this popular Trinidadian snack. Doubles are eaten at all times of the day, hot or cold - whatever you prefer. It's made of 2 pieces of griddled batter wrapped around curried chickpeas (ask for no pepper sauce if you don’t want it super-hot).
Then it was off to the tropical rainforest of the Arima Valley, where our second project is based. The nature reserve blends seamlessly into the valley and works hard to conserve its natural beauty and to educate visitors on important conservation issues. The main building of the nature reserve has a viewing platform at the back, with a great vantage point over the valley. It’s a beautiful view for anyone, but birdwatchers are particularly drawn to the reserve for the amazing variety of birdlife that can be found here. Within 2 minutes of stepping out onto the viewing platform I’d seen my first humming bird!
After lunch I took a guided walk through the nature reserve which boasts an extensive network of trails without encroaching on the wildlife. It is advised that all visitors are guided, as it would be easy to get lost. My guide was great. He seemed to have an answer for everything and gave the group the opportunity to suck on coffee beans fresh from the tree and to snack on termites. I've got to admit, I wimped out on this one, but I really do regret it now. I just didn't fancy sticking my finger in there... yuk!
As a non-profit organisation this project raises money through entrance fees and guided tours but as is often the way, more help is always needed! Whether it’s feeding the birds and animals next to the viewing platform, restoring the trails around the grounds or taking care of the local flora (which are so important for attracting wildlife to the reserve), there is always more than enough work to go around.
Lunch was delicious and I can certainly vouch for the fact that any volunteer working at this project and living in staff quarters will be well-fed! There was a fantastic buffet including rice with vegetables, ground provisions (a Caribbean term for foods such as potato, dasheen, plantain, cassava and green banana), beef, beans and callaloo (a kind of green-leaf gravy) and this is exactly what volunteers will be eating while they're here!
That same afternoon we met up with the organiser of a very different project, dedicated to social development through football. By providing this community service he hopes to give the children of Trinidad a positive learning experience, improving their self-esteem and reinforcing the family unit. Current volunteers at the project tend to be the parents of the children who play but more help is needed and volunteers are often great role models for the children.
The project has been running since 2003 and has 5 philosophies...
- Everyone plays
- Teams are balanced
- Positive coaching
- Open registration
- Good sportsmanship
Current volunteers have been trained and certified to become qualified coaches, though this won’t be possible in the time scales available to our volunteers. However, i-to-i volunteers will get some training from a current volunteer who is being trained as an instructor. The project is based at the Larry Gomes Stadium, and volunteers will stay in nearby homestays, so they’ll really get to know the local community.
On my final evening we drove through Port of Spain where I saw, for the first time, the seriously wealthy side of the island. The contrasts were astonishing – massive hillside mansions built next door to corrugated iron shacks. The carnival spirit had continued from earlier in the week and we got stuck in a mass of traffic as the sun set and a hundred beach limes ended simultaneously. I left early the next morning. The memories I took away with me were of an island of outstanding beauty and of warm, welcoming people… And, of course, some fantastic food!
