A little bit of history...

 Colossal in size and from an historical perspective, China is believed to embody 5,000 years worth of heritage beginning with the Xia dynasty. For centuries it was the world’s leading civilisation and a series of dynasties shaped the country, notably the Tang dynasty which came to the fore at a time that is widely considered to be China’s Golden Age. It was during this period (618-907) that the arts flourished, Buddhism became the main religion and trade prospered. Dynasties like the Song, Yuan and Ming followed, each laying their imprints and evolving the country.

The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in the early 16th century but it wasn’t until the 18th century that the trade routes were fully exploited by European interests which inevitably led to tensions. The Opium Wars, a dispute over opium trade between China and Britain, raged during the mid-19th century culminating in the signing of treaties which led to China conceding, though later reclaimed, Hong Kong to Britain. China’s land mass and colonial power was further diminished when other countries followed suit and forced treaties to increase trade with China; European colonists took over Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, while Japan occupied Korea and Taiwan.

By 1911, imperial rule was brought to a grinding halt when the Qing dynasty was ousted from power and the country was declared a republic. The period was littered with disruption and a lack of political presence with warlords ruling their respective territories. By the 1920s, dominant political forces emerged in the form of the Kuomintang (KMT or Nationalist Party) and the Chinese Communist Party (CCP). After a brief union to ward off Japanese threats, the KMT and CCP’s stiff opposition escalated into civil war from 1945 to 1949. Under Mao Zedong, the CCP were the victors and the People’s Republic of China (PRC) was declared in 1949, while the central government of the Republic of China (ROC) retreated to Taiwan.

In the early days of the communist regime, successful economic and land reforms were carried out to resurrect the country’s economy with a focus on industrial production. Attention was turned to agricultural output and bringing the economy up a gear with the implementation of agricultural communes with plans to abolish money and private property. Rural workers were also encouraged to increase steel production from backyard furnaces which proved futile in strengthening the economy. This in addition to droughts and floods hampered production, while Soviet aid to China ceased in 1960, rendering the effort a large scale catastrophe resulting in widespread famine. The Cultural Revolution (1966-1970) sought to re-establish Chairman Mao’s weakened position within the Communist Party and ward off opponents. A militia group, the Red Army, was installed and Mao’s little red book of quotations became the main ideological framework. The Revolution amounted to upheaval on a large scale and administered the persecution of intellectuals and artists, enforced strict codes of conduct and millions of people were killed or imprisoned.

Post-revolution, the focus was on modernising the economy and an ‘open door policy’ which helped to lay the foundations for China’s current economic boom. Political change and freedom has not been so forthcoming; the Tiananmen Square massacre in 1989 underpinned the government’s stance on dissent and appeals for democracy. State control and bureaucracy remains deeply ingrained and there are disparities between the booming urban areas and the rural economies. Nevertheless, China has reinvented itself over the past few decades and has a firm footing on the world stage with membership to the World Trade Organisation and is host to the 2008 Olympic Games.

Best time to go...

While a Siberian chill lingers in the northeast and sub-tropical notes hit the southwest, China’s climate is as diverse as its landscape. As a general guide, spring (April and May) and autumn (September and October) are the most weather-friendly seasons to visit. The north, including Beijing, experiences harshly cold winters from December to March, while the summer months hot up to temperatures exceeding 30ËšC. In the central region, including Shanghai and around the Yangzi River, there is a higher percentage of rainfall year round with extreme temperatures during winter and summer. The south is hot and humid with November to February bringing welcome relief with a drop in temperature. Hong Kong is mild from mid-September to the end of February, with May to mid-September making air-conditioning feel like the greatest gift on earth.

As much as weather can affect the enjoyment factor for some, peak times may also be a consideration depending on your tolerance for high levels of tourist congestion at the visitor hotspots and on public transport. The busiest time to visit is during Chinese New Year (Spring Festival), the actual date depends on the lunar cycle but usually takes place around February, with the celebrations lasting a couple of weeks before and after the given day. The week long Labour Day holiday, which runs from May 1, and the National Day Holiday, from October 1 (each lasts a couple of days or less in Hong Kong and Macau), sees a large influx of domestic visitors to the main attractions so it’s best to visit the well-known sights before these holidays kick off.

Currency and living costs… (based on prices in and around Beijing)

The China Yuàn Renminbi is China’s unit of currency. The current exchange rate is: $1 to Y7.87200. Check www.xe.com or equivalent for the most up to date exchange rate.

The average costs of life’s little essentials are as follows:

• Meals – Those on a budget can expect to pay between Y30 and Y90 on a meal for two, while upmarket restaurants charge around Y190 to Y400 for a meal for two.
  
  
• Beer – The average price of bottled beer is between Y8 and Y10.
  
  
• Coffee – a cup of coffee ranges between Y8 and Y12.
  
  
• Water – bottled water is priced between Y1 and Y2.
  
  
• Taxi ride – Taxis generally charge a flag-down rate of Y10 to Y12 and then around Y1.2 per km for a minicab and up to Y2 per km for a higher class of taxi.
  
  
• Accommodation – Budget hotels and hostels charge around Y40 to Y200, while a 2* hotel room is in the region of Y100 to Y250 per night.
  
  
• Internet café – Most Internet cafés charge Y2 per hour.

Currency and living costs… in Hong Kong

In Hong Kong, the Hong Kong Dollar is the unit of currency. The current exchange rate is: $1 to HK$7.77841. Check www.xe.com or equivalent for the most up to date exchange rate.

The average costs of life’s little essentials are as follows:

• Meals – A bowl of wonton noodles can be bought for around HK$15, while a mid-priced meal for one with a soft drink in a restaurant is priced upwards of HK$50.
  
  
• Beer – a beer in a bar is priced between HK$30 and HK$50.
  
  
• Coffee – a cup of coffee is priced around HK$25.
  
  
• Water – bottled water is priced between HK$8 and HK$10
  
  
• Taxi ride – Flag-down rates vary between HK$12 and HK$15, and range from HK$1.2 to HK$1.4 per 0.2 km thereafter.
  
  
• Accommodation – Guesthouses are between HK$150 and HK$250, while hostels are priced in the region of HK$200 to HK$400.
  
  
• Internet café – Internet access per hour is generally around HK$15 to HK$20.

Getting around...

It takes a huge dose of patience, stamina and a love of long distances to rely solely on ground transportation to cover China’s monumental distances, if planning to explore the country to the hilt that is. To get an idea of the distances involved, flights from Beijing to Shanghai are around 2 hours, Xi’an from Beijing or Shanghai is also 2 hours, while Beijing to Hong Kong is over 3 and a half hours. In accordance with its economic good fortune, China is equipped with relatively new or renovated airports together with an extensive airline network that serves the mainland as well as Hong Kong and Macau. The Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC) oversees the country’s main domestic airlines which include Air China, China Eastern and China Southern. It’s best to book domestic flights after you arrive as it can often work out cheaper buying from an agent in China; booking a few days in advance is advisable to get the best price. Discounted rates are also available in-country on select flights.

Train travel is the next best thing. It’s a relatively speedy and safe way to get to the main cities and overnight services are common given the distances involved. Comfort levels depend on which class you choose, for long, overnight journeys, the soft sleeper option is the best. It features four bunks in compartments that are sealed off with a door for privacy, a shared western-style toilet and other mod-cons. Hard sleepers cost considerably less but usually hold 6 bunks, lack the privacy of a closed door compartment and are separated by partitions; a squat toilet is situated at the each end of the carriage which becomes vomit inducing as the journey progresses. For shorter distances, the cheapest way to travel is to opt for the hard seat class. It gets very crowded and the soft seat option is much more pleasant and is available on express trains.

Sleeper buses aren’t as comfortable as their train counterparts but there is a good network of long distance bus services available, mainly along the east coast and between the major cities, that aren’t necessarily back-crunching and leg-numbing experiences. Buses also venture out to remote villages and towns that are inaccessible by train. Bus services in rural areas, however, can seem primitive in comparison and the roads aren’t nearly as smooth as in more developed areas.

Getting around by car is not a feasible option if you want to explore the country at your heart’s desire. Foreign visitors are restricted to driving rented vehicles within Beijing, Shanghai or Hong Kong only. It’s possible to rent a car with a driver but this works out expensive for long stays.

China is the place for cycle enthusiasts. It boasts more bicycles than any other country and rental is widely available. Buying a bike is also worthwhile if you plan to spend a length of time in the country and it’s possible to re-sell it and recoup part of the cost before you leave. There are designated parking spots for bikes in most towns and cities. Long-distance buses don’t usually charge to carry bikes, unlike trains and airlines.

There’s no shortage of taxis, motorcycle taxis and pedicabs on the city roads. In most cases, it helps to have a map to hand or your destination written in Chinese characters if you don’t speak the language. In addition, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Guangzhou boast underground rail systems that are an efficient and cheap way of getting around. Beijing’s subway system is being developed further in time for the Olympics and currently has 4 lines that cover the main parts of the city with signs in English. The city also has a convenient bus network but negotiating the extensive routes can be hard work for non-Chinese speakers. Rickshaws are also available but tend to cost more than using a taxi.

Shanghai’s metro system comprises a subway and elevated light railway. It’s easy to use, (with signs in English) cheap and a speedy way to travel across the city, especially during rush hour when the roads are rammed. Like Beijing, bus travel during rush hour is best avoided, particularly between 7.30am and 10am and 5pm and 7pm. Taxis are readily available and the companies operating them are identifiable by colours; turquoise and orange taxis are considered to be among the most reliable and are run by the respective companies Dazhong and Qiangsheng. Unlike other parts of China, Shanghai isn’t as accommodating to bike riders as it once was. In line with the city’s mass development of recent years, motorised vehicles now clog up the roads.

Hong Kong is a breeze to get around thanks to a highly efficient transport system and widely used English language signs and street names. There’s an extensive bus network which includes double-deckers and minibuses; the buses are far-reaching and travel to parts of Kowloon, the New Territories and south of Hong Kong Island where other modes don’t venture. Outside of the populous areas, it is common practice to flag down buses rather than relying on them to stop at designated points. A good way to take in the scenes is to travel on Hong Kong’s major tram line that runs east to west along the northern part of Hong Kong Island. For a quicker way to get around, the underground railway network (in Hong Kong the term subway is used for underground walkways not railways) services the main hot spots and also boasts an express line that links the airport (situated on Lantau Island) to Hong Kong Island. There are also regular train services that work the commuter routes, while the Kowloon-Canton Railway links Kowloon to mainland China. The Light Rail Transit (LRT), meanwhile, connects routes in the western part of the New Territories.

Criss-crossing Victoria Harbour, ferries are a popular and cheap way of travelling between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. There are several ferry companies but the Star Ferry Company is perhaps the best known. The trip is a snip at 7 minutes total duration and ferries depart every 5 to 10 minutes depending on the time of day. There are also a number of ferry services to the outlaying islands, which can get crowded during weekends. If spending a few days in Hong Kong, it’s probably cheaper to purchase an Octopus card which allows unlimited travel for a set price on trains, trams, subways, as well as on most buses and ferries; buses and ferries require exact fares so it also avoids the need to carry around oodles of change.

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